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Bugeye Hardtop Glass Installation

mxp01

Jedi Warrior
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All:


I have a new BE hardtop (from Rodger Ward), all the seals, and a piece of hard window glass from a prior top. Can some give me brief step-by-step installation instructions?


I would much appreciate it.


Mike
 
I've never installed one, but I've removed two. It looks similar to installing rear glass in old pick up trucks.
 
Interlocking original style seal or one with a lock strip? Is it one continuous (fused) loop or single rope style that must have the ends trimmed to fit?

There are two basic techniques. One requires placing the rubber on the glass first, and using paracord, pull the lip of the deal through the window opening. I've never tried this with fiberglass. the rough, and more fragile edge of the fiberglass may not work well. (See attached explanation)

The way I have done it is by placing the seal on the fiberglass first. If it is the rope style, make sure you have the seal trimmed to fit perfectly butting the ends at the bottom center of the opening. Place the glass into the seal as much as possible, starting with the glass in the bottom channel. Work the tightest radius corners first. The four corners, especially the last one, will be the most challenging.

Then it's a matter of coaxing the rubber lip from behind the glass to the outside. Do this by gently pulling your spatula or pallets knife between the glass and the rubber, and gradually coaxing and gently prying the lip from under the glass, while keeping firm pressure against the glass. Once the glass is all the way in the channel, the process is pretty much the same in getting the interlocking strip mated.

Tools:

A thin and narrow plastic spatula that will withstand a fair amount of pressure without flexing too much or breaking. A sturdy steel palette knife with rounded corners is also good, but requires more care near painted surfaces (in case you slip)

Find some actual rubber lube if you can, otherwise some liquid dishwashing soapy water solution will do. Black Magic Protectant works better.

Patience, patience, and more patience. Expect to work up a sweat. An extra pair of hands to hold things is advisable too.

It's a good idea to tape around the edges of the area your working. If you tool slips (which it will), you'll have a better chance of not damaging the finish.

Do it on a warm day in the sun or in a warm environment; the rubber will be more cooperative.

Last, but not least, consider having it done by a professional. They make the job look easy and it takes the responsibility off you if you break the glass.


Screen Shot 2016-08-25 at 9.45.11 PM.jpg
 
I have not worked with fiberglass hardtops but I have installed glass in steel hardtops and several windshields in various British cars. In general I use the method described by Gerard. The only thing I do differently is to use KY Jelly for the lubricant.
 
If this is a T piece rubber gasket with a filler rubber, then the method I used to do my Sprite hardtop should work . Warm the seal in the hot sun. Then put it onto the hardtop first from the inside. Then run a strong cord of twine around the edge. Set glass in the bottom of the seal from the inside and use the twine to pull the seal over the glass while you keep outward pressure on the glass. The hard part for me was setting the strip. Use a water based lube (J-Lube is a farm ob lube) and the plastic glazing tool ( VB has it) and push it in. Somewhere on the web there is a good description on how to do it on an Mustang. I am on my Cellphone now so I can not find a link.
Good luck. My hands hurt for days afterwards and I work on the farm daily.
Second method: glass shop.
Paul
 
The original seal did not use a (separate) lock strip. Instead, it has an interlocking lip that must be tucked in after the glass is in place.

wp_20160826_14_13_25_pro.jpgwp_20160826_14_24_00_pro.jpg
 
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