Bugeye doors

[rossco]

The Phillips screws holding the doors in place are hopelessly rusted in place and the heads are beyond turning. Looks as though I'm looking at grinding or drilling them out. (doing pre-paint stuff) What tool(s) can someone recommend that will work within the confines of those tight spaces? I'm sure that at least half of you (or more) who have restored a sprite have had to do the same. Finding drill bits that will handle British metal/screws has also been a challenge.

 

[Billm]

Get a common "good quality" 1/4" drill bit and go for it, no mystery
Be SURE that it is good quality and SHARP!
If you don't know how to resharpen drills then you may want to get a couple of them since they will chip with use.
Use a "slower" speed on the drill motor if you can- too fast will dull the bit in a heartbeat.
BillM

 

[Rut]

BillM X 2! You need an impact wrench with the proper bit...a Pozidriv! A regular Phillips bit will just chew up the head and you'll have to drill it out.
Rut
https://www.wihatools.com/bits/standard-bits/pozidriv

 

[BlueMax]

Soaked all screws in PB Blaster for a week then used my Snap-on hand impact tool. https://www.ebay.com/itm/like/232021139127?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
After a good hard smack they broke free with no issues after that. After the car was painted I replaced all the screws with stainless steel button head bolts.

 

[Desert Rat]

Mine were pretty well rounded from someone trying to get them out with a Philips. My Makita impact driver and a Pozidriv bit set from Amazon and they came out with little effort. I used a little BP Blaster for good measure.

 

[rossco]

Thanks to y'all for the helpful tips. Got 10 of the 12 screws out with the impact tool. Had to drill the last two heads off. Both doors are off. Two studs sticking out But so tight and the vice grips barely fit in the opening. I can only get about an 8th of a turn on the studs but the tool isn't turning the stud anyway. Still hopelessly rusted in. If you have any tips I would try anything at this point. Down the line I've noticed both bottom backer plates (with the threads) are floating around loose. How do I engage those if I even get that far?

 

[Trevor Jessie]

weld a nut onto the studs

 

[rossco]

Trevor. That's brilliant!!

 

[markberry]

Thanks to y'all for the helpful tips. Got 10 of the 12 screws out with the impact tool. Had to drill the last two heads off. Both doors are off. Two studs sticking out But so tight and the vice grips barely fit in the opening. I can only get about an 8th of a turn on the studs but the tool isn't turning the stud anyway. Still hopelessly rusted in. If you have any tips I would try anything at this point. Down the line I've noticed both bottom backer plates (with the threads) are floating around loose. How do I engage those if I even get that far?

Try heating the plates with the drilled out screws until they're red hot then quench them with water. The extreme heat and rapid cooling will break the bond that the rust has formed between the screw and the plate. You'll need an oxy acetelyne torch to get it this hot though.
regards
mark

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Welding a nut on it is a common trick. But it is harder than it sounds because of the location of the stud. Be sure to clean the plating off the nut before welding.
The heat from the weld may help break it loose as Mark suggests.

 

[Rut]

I've used a combination of the above with success. I use a MAPP torch to heat it red hot, quench with 1:1 acetone/ATF, and use a broken stud remover on my impact driver. Have a fire extinguisher handy since the acetone/ATF will flame up when it hits the hot metal!
Rut
https://www.zoro.com/irwin-impact-b...C2h8zuHogON8CKPI9T4NixoCXvzw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[SD Bugeye]

Soak in weasel wiz for couple days then use a good quality posidrive bit and a impact drill.