Bugeye Dash Help

[60Bugeye]

I think I know the purpose of every hole on my dash, but I posted a picture below for confirmation from the experts (that's you!).

There is one hole that I believe was cut by a previous owner (labeled "Hack?").

Also the rear of my dash (like others) has chalk markings, which I have guessed as to their meaning. Am I even close?

Front:

Rear:

 

[Gerard]

Front:

Most everything is correct, but the one labeled "lights is actually for the screen washer pump. The actual light switch is in combination with the ignition switch. "Hack" is definitely not a stock hole.

Back:

30815 is probably your chassis number. Do you have an original chassis plate? Check the number against that.

The "R/6" might be reference to the radio (??)

I've never seen markings that were this easy to read after so many years.

Gerard

 

[jlaird]

What you have labled as Hack just may have been someone installing a lighter.

 

[smaceng]

For the front, the gauge is water temperature and oil pressure, no voltage reading.
On the back, color was red for the covering, H is for heater option, w/w is for windshield washer and MPH means units in english units for the gauges rather than metric. Not sure what the R/6 means. Great marks on the back, try to keep them, as yours is very rare!
Scott in CA

 

[60Bugeye]

You guys are awesome! Thanks!

There is a plate on the inside of the driver door pillar. Assuming this is the chassis number, I will cross reference it against the dash tonight. I don't think the number on the dash matches the number on the front frame member.

The hack will be "fun" to patch.

As for the chalk marks, I was wondering if I could carefully wire-brush the surface rust and put a rust-inhibiting clear coat on in, if such a product exists.

The "31" mark is in white chalk vs yellow for the rest.

Anyone know what "31" might indicate?

 

[60Bugeye]

Maybe a naive question, but might "R/6" indicate a 6-volt radio?

 

[Gerard]

Hi Chris,

I doubt very much that Radio would be 6 volt. No Bugeyes never came with 6 volt systems.

Regarding serial numbers. The chassis number is located on a plate on the chassis rail underneath the carbs. If that is missing, the number on the Right Hand door post can be used to trace the original chassis number through BMIHT. The left hand door post can not. The traceable door plate number will begin with the prefix "BAE".

Not sure what "31" could be unless maybe is a date the car is being completed. That info will be on a BMIHT Certificate too.

If you need more info regarding BMIHT Certificates, see the link on my web site.

https://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/bmihtWS.htm

There is a link to the Heritage site there too.

Gerard

 

[drooartz]

The Tunebug has the R/6 as well (looks more like R16 on mine). No radio (dash is uncut and original).

The number on mine is the VIN/chassis number, from the plate under the carbs in the engine bay -- NOT the body tag on the door pillar.

I wound up having to paint over mine due to the surface rust issues. I kept the photos so I could consider putting the marks back some day. Was a hard decision to make, but the integrity of the piece won out for me.

 

[jlaird]

Gesh, you guys. Miss Agatha has clear coat over her chalk. Think is may be rustolum.

 

[60Bugeye]

Gesh, you guys. Miss Agatha has clear coat over her chalk. Think is may be rustolum.

I'll do clear coat over mine if I can be reasonably confident the rust will be neutralized.

 

[jlaird]

Check and see what is available in your area, Ace, carquest, etc.

 

[drooartz]

I had to sand down too much, Jack, for it to really matter. The way it goes some days.

 

[paulsherman]

While we are on the subject, can someone tell me the length of the braces that attach to the dash? I believe there are 2 and recently someone said the could be fabricated from copper tubing, using a BFH. How wide and thick and where do they attach to the chassis? Suppose I could go look but kinda cold (in the 40s) now in the Seattle area.
Thank you

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I'd go out and measure, but it is 20 degrees here. Maybe someone from Florida will answer. :wink:

 

[Whitephrog]

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUSTIN-HEALEY-SPRI...=item43a502e4e4

 

[Gerard]

I had to sand down too much, Jack, for it to really matter. The way it goes some days.

In a situation like this, the way I deal with either the light surface rust or even crusty stuff is with phosphoric acid, rather than sanding. In this case, where your dash is out, lay it face down on a horizontal surface and brush phosphoric acid on the effected areas. To avoid getting it on areas you don't want, just make sure the inclination is such that it will stay where you want it. You'll be surprised how quickly it will do the job and it will actually create a coating the will inhibit rust. You can scrape off the converted rust until you get clean metal again. Repeat applications until the surface stops turning black. Rinse with water or wipe with a damp rag. The phosphoric acid won't strip the paint per se, but can cause some separation along the wet area after a while if the paint is not bonded well . Experiment with some other non-critical parts first until you get an idea how it works. Once you are satisfied with your results, you can clear coat if you like. I think you can get some decent stuff in spray cans off the shelf. but auto paint suppliers these days can package a quart of the good stuff into custom spray cans.

Gerard

 

[60Bugeye]

While we are on the subject, can someone tell me the length of the braces that attach to the dash? I believe there are 2 and recently someone said the could be fabricated from copper tubing, using a BFH. How wide and thick and where do they attach to the chassis? Suppose I could go look but kinda cold (in the 40s) now in the Seattle area.
Thank you

I'm on Bainbridge but my garage is insulated, so not too cold.

Mine measure 7 in long, 5/8 in wide.

 

[60Bugeye]

I had to sand down too much, Jack, for it to really matter. The way it goes some days.

In a situation like this, the way I deal with either the light surface rust or even crusty stuff is with phosphoric acid, rather than sanding. In this case, where your dash is out, lay it face down on a horizontal surface and brush phosphoric acid on the effected areas. To avoid getting it on areas you don't want, just make sure the inclination is such that it will stay where you want it. You'll be surprised how quickly it will do the job and it will actually create a coating the will inhibit rust. You can scrape off the converted rust until you get clean metal again. Repeat applications until the surface stops turning black. Rinse with water or wipe with a damp rag. The phosphoric acid won't strip the paint per se, but can cause some separation along the wet area after a while if the paint is not bonded well . Experiment with some other non-critical parts first until you get an idea how it works. Once you are satisfied with your results, you can clear coat if you like. I think you can get some decent stuff in spray cans off the shelf. but auto paint suppliers these days can package a quart of the good stuff into custom spray cans.

Gerard

Something like this stuff?

https://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stor...ocStoreNum=4702

 

[60Bugeye]

While we are on the subject, can someone tell me the length of the braces that attach to the dash? I believe there are 2 and recently someone said the could be fabricated from copper tubing, using a BFH. How wide and thick and where do they attach to the chassis? Suppose I could go look but kinda cold (in the 40s) now in the Seattle area.
Thank you

I'm on Bainbridge but my garage is insulated, so not too cold.

Mine measure 7 in long, 5/8 in wide.

I should also note that there is a slight bend in each brace at the end closer to the dash connection. So, if they were straight they might measure closer to 7 1/8.

 

[Gerard]

I had to sand down too much, Jack, for it to really matter. The way it goes some days.

In a situation like this, the way I deal with either the light surface rust or even crusty stuff is with phosphoric acid, rather than sanding. In this case, where your dash is out, lay it face down on a horizontal surface and brush phosphoric acid on the effected areas. To avoid getting it on areas you don't want, just make sure the inclination is such that it will stay where you want it. You'll be surprised how quickly it will do the job and it will actually create a coating the will inhibit rust. You can scrape off the converted rust until you get clean metal again. Repeat applications until the surface stops turning black. Rinse with water or wipe with a damp rag. The phosphoric acid won't strip the paint per se, but can cause some separation along the wet area after a while if the paint is not bonded well . Experiment with some other non-critical parts first until you get an idea how it works. Once you are satisfied with your results, you can clear coat if you like. I think you can get some decent stuff in spray cans off the shelf. but auto paint suppliers these days can package a quart of the good stuff into custom spray cans.

Gerard

Something like this stuff?

https://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stor...ocStoreNum=4702

No, this is the one I use:

https://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=32&prodid=81