• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

breaks question

Share this page

nicko

nicko

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
Hi all,
would like to know your opinion. Decided to replace the hydraulic fluids so at the same timeI rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders and the master cylinder for the brakes. I had already recently replaced the rubber hoses to the brakes and have replaced the break callipers and new brake shoes in the drums. After refilling and bleeding the brakes they seem very soft and "spongy". The clutch works perfectly.
My question is do you think there could still be air in the system or do you think a rebuild of the servo is needed?
It's a lockheed so not original to the car which is a BJ8 but not sure when this was replaced ( I have owned the car for 10 years).
All advice gratefully received !
Thanks,

Nico:encouragement:
 
nicko said:
Hi all,
would like to know your opinion. Decided to replace the hydraulic fluids so at the same timeI rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders and the master cylinder for the brakes. I had already recently replaced the rubber hoses to the brakes and have replaced the break callipers and new brake shoes in the drums. After refilling and bleeding the brakes they seem very soft and "spongy". The clutch works perfectly.
My question is do you think there could still be air in the system or do you think a rebuild of the servo is needed?
It's a lockheed so not original to the car which is a BJ8 but not sure when this was replaced ( I have owned the car for 10 years).
All advice gratefully received !
Thanks,

Nico:encouragement:
Click to expand...

Nico, I've had some cars that were very difficult and aggravating to bleed by pumping the pedals. Last year, I bought a cheap brake bleeder that uses compressed air to create a vacuum. You just attach and air line, and the bleeder's hose to a nipple. Open it, and pull the fluid through the hose into the bleeder. This tool quickly removes all of the trapped air, but make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir.

I got it at Harbor Freight, our local cheap Chinese tool store. I'm sure there is something similar in France. Good luck, Jim
 
I like the simplicity of this plastic bleeder syringe for pulling the fluid out. Wrap each bleeder screw with teflon tape or pack grease around it to keep outside air from bleeding in past the threads.
Agricultural/veterinary use similar.
BleederSyringe_1.jpg

Also be sure to bleed the wheels in order most distant first: LR, RR, LF, RF
 
Back
Top