Breaking In Running In a newly built Healey Engine

[BN6]

Anyone got the best way of breaking/running in a newly rebuilt Healey 3000 engine, to be run off the car first.

What are the best recommended lubricants for the breaking/running in period.

How long would the breaking/running in period be off the car.

I am going to run it off the car incase of any issues that may develop, leaks, changes, adjustments etc. etc.

 

[LarryK]

Start and run at about 2000rpm for 20 mins minimum to 30 mins, Shut down, change immediately to your driving oil and new filter. retorque head gaskets. Install, and change oil again at 1000 miles and retorque head gasket. Any break in oil available at auto parts store of a non-detergent 30W. Watch pressure and temp constantly, if any problems, shut down.

 

[dougie]

Anyone got the best way of breaking/running in a newly rebuilt Healey 3000 engine, to be run off the car first.

What are the best recommended lubricants for the breaking/running in period.

How long would the breaking/running in period be off the car.

I am going to run it off the car incase of any issues that may develop, leaks, changes, adjustments etc. etc.

I just broke-in my new race motor a couple weeks back. This is about the 5-6 one over the past 15 years, I always run them in with Joe Gibbs
https://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/br-break-in-oil-16060html/ I have an accusump, so I can prime/pressurize the system prior to turning it over. Once started, I run it at 2500 rpm for about 30 minutes while I check the the temp and oil pressure and adjust timing. I also have an additional fan running towards the front of the car. And good assistant is usually great ideal.

 

[HealeyPassion]

Doug,
I especially like the look on your "good assistance" face.... I've seen that look many times on my lovely assistance's face as she's been summoned to the garage to help.

Steve

 

[steveg]

Friends and I refer to them as the "dreaded assistant" because of the high cost of employing them.

 

[dougie]

Doug,
I especially like the look on your "good assistance" face.... I've seen that look many times on my lovely assistance's face as she's been summoned to the garage to help.

Steve

You nailed it Steve, I'm lucky she's a good sport.

 

[HealeyPassion]

Steve, I hope you don't refer to them as "dreaded assistants" while they are within hearing distance.... or the cost will go up dramatically!!

 

[Bob_Spidell]

My engine builder used Lucas 30W break-in oil. They primed the oil system with a pressurized container, and he used points so he could static time the ignition system. He said it fired on the first crank (of course, he would :wink-new. Some say to to run the starter with plugs out to build oil pressure, but some say not to as it scrubs the assembly lube off (I suspect this is a wash). The admonishment to run at about 2K for 20-30mins for proper cam break-in seems to be universal. He said to run the break-in oil for 500m, but I cracked the pan and had to change out at about 250m for my usual 20W-50. I'm assuming good assembly lube was used in your rebuild?

Note ZDDP is critical for break-in--and pretty much always for a flat tappet engine--but don't overdo it as the zinc and phosphorus can get corrosive at too high levels.

 

[BN6]

Thank you everyone for the quick replies it seems everyone is on the same page, 2-2500rpm for 20-30 mins using running in oil of around 30w then change to normal oil not to long after.

 

[bob hughes]

I would make sure that the oil is in the right places first what ever type you use. Disconnect the lead from the coil to the dizzy and turn the engine over on the battery until you see the pressure building on the gauge, this may take a couple of minutes. Once you get a good pressure then connect everything back and start the engine. I used a cheap 20/50 with the ZDDP and ran it gently without straining for 500 miles then changed.



Bob

 

[BN6]

For the assembly lube I used semi synthetic Lucas Oils high performance lube and for the initial breaking in I was looking at Millers Classic running in oil 30W.

View attachment 55113

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Is it necessary to re torque the head? Twice? I'm not challenging. Just making sure that I'm doing things right.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Is it necessary to re torque the head? Twice? I'm not challenging. Just making sure that I'm doing things right.

My builder said no; but, it's been common practice for, like, forever. My rebuilt engine has over 10K miles on it, and I haven't re-torqued the head--yet--with no ill effects. It's a bit of a pain on an Austin 6 because you have to remove the rocker shaft to do it*, and I always get nervous messing with a non-leaking feed pipe to the shaft.

* If anything knows of an offset, 'crows-foot' type wrench or extension that can reach the nuts without removing the shaft please let us know.

 

[red57]

I'm no pro but this is the method I am used to (& was beat into me by an engine guru friend). I re-torque the head once after the initial cam bedding run. That 20+minutes at 2-2500 will give a complete heat soak to everything

(which is what compresses the head gasket and requires re-torqueing) and then after it cools to ambient, change oil and re-torque & adjust valves.

IMO there is no other 'break-in' required, "drive it like you stole it". Additional oil changes are not harmful and may help remove any loose particles and no harm in addition re-torqueing.
​

The only things that 'bed in' are the cam/lifters and the rings - the cam/lifters were bedded in the first 20 min. The rings, unless you have some old school racing chrome ones, will also be bedded in the first 20 min because they all have abrasives built into the outer edges to facilitate break-in. All bearings and other surfaces are running on an oil film so no metal-to-metal to require 'bedding'. Have followed this procedure for 20+ years and several motors going straight onto the track - never a problem. YMMV
Dave

 

[steveg]

Steve, I hope you don't refer to them as "dreaded assistants" while they are within hearing distance.... or the cost will go up dramatically!!

Yup, we keep that under our hats. No need to artificially inflate the market. It's like "War Emergency Horsepower" - you don't like to use it but when you need it you really need it. (out of ammo with a Focke Wulfe on your tail.)

 

[Randy Forbes]

Another vote for Joe Gibbs, has all your vitamins Z, D, D & P in it!

NOTE: I felt the JG oil was enough, but the client insisted on the RedLine additive too. The customer isn't always right, but they're always the customer...