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Brakes will be first

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Jedi Hopeful
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For our '59 TR3A, we are putting together a list of parts to order for replacing all of the brake system. This will include new lines, wheel cyl, master cyl (clutch looks the same?), clutch slave rebuild, rear linings, springs and clips, all new copper crush washers, and misc bits. Dot 5 fluid - 2 qts. The calipers will be sent out for rebuild. The rotors look good, probably could be cut at least one more time.

I just had one question regarding master cylinders. There was a discussion regarding some faulty master cylinders back in Jan. Is this something that has been resolved? Having been in the business years ago, we know that defective parts can stay in the pipeline for a long time. We were just wondering.

Thanks,
T
 
Sounds like a solid plan.

While you are under the car, it would also be a good time to check the suspension. The stock rubber bushings do tend to deteriorate (especially the ones on the top A-arms). And if you are taking the rotors off, of course check the front bearings (at least repack, or maybe just replace on general principles).

Also check your clutch and brake pedals. I'm not sure how similar the 3A is to the 4A here, but I found that mine were pretty much frozen together, probably from brake fluid and water running down on them.
 
any particular reason for replacing the brake lines? if you have a compressor put some denatured AL in them and just blow them out

HOndo
 
A) they're British
B) they're metal
C) they're over 50 years old

Probably a good idea.
 
Can't argue with replacing the lines but will add I took mine off as patterns for local old brake guy and local old brake guy said put'em back on.
 
As to your request for more info regarding the master cylinder situation, you are probably referring to this thread. Kelvin made the last post to note that they were still evaluating the problem and had sourced a replacement. Perhaps you can email him directly doddk ATsign mossmotors.com
(email addy deliberately messed up, but you get the picture). I've only had a couple of contacts with him over on the TR8 list but he had been very helpful. I think once you converse with him you will be able to make an informed decision.
 
as long as the lines were full of fluid they should be ok, just because they are british doesnt mean they are bad, and unless they are cracked why replace them, I am 50 doesnt mean I need replacing,,, doest it?, British cars get a bad reputation because of the british car owners jerry rigging things, messing with wires they know nothing about. Now I would definately replace the rubber brake flex lines!

Hondo
 
hondo402000 said:
I am 50 doesnt mean I need replacing,,, doest it?, Hondo
Click to expand...

The wife and I have tried that argument. Doesn't fly here! :jester:
 
hondo402000 said:
any particular reason for replacing the brake lines? if you have a compressor put some denatured AL in them and just blow them out

HOndo
Click to expand...

I can't expect you to read my mind, can I.

The lines are leaking at the unions - I think the fittings have been cross threaded. Some of the lines have been bent , also.

We'll buy our lines locally and use the old ones as a pattern. We have access to a friend's flaring tools.

Thanks to everyone for their advice.
 
I would like to see how that work goes in a picture/write up kind of way. I am going to have to do the same thing at some point. The system in my car is dry so I have a lot more work ahead I believe.

My 53 year old ride Link
 
hondo402000 said:
just because they are british doesnt mean they are bad, and unless they are cracked why replace them,
Click to expand...
I felt much the same way, but a recent experience convinced me somewhat otherwise.

I've got a crate full of old brake hydraulics removed from TR3/A probably 30-40 years ago. Looking through it for the short line from the reservoir to the clutch MC, I found one that looked fine. But when I tugged on it, not very hard at all, it simply broke in my hands! Even being able to see inside the tube, there was no obvious corrosion, just the usual dull grey color of old brake lines.

Also, I lost one of my previous TR3s, basically because one of the hard lines failed while it was parked. Even though that was close to 30 years ago, the memory of going down a steep hill, with absolutely no brakes (handbrake cable had broken previously and not been replaced), and knowing there was a concrete wall at the bottom (underground parking garage) is still vivid.
 
A casual look at my brake lines led me to think they were not too bad. Closer examination made the decision to change everything a 'safe' decision. Several of the lines were not routed correctly (there was a copper compression union between the axle and the check strap). I got a 'kit' with all new fittings and bent the lines myself. I hope I did a better job than whoever last worked on my brakes.

The rubber parts were definitely overdue for replacement.
 

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The flares (bubble) seem to get worn and not seal well with age and screw/unscrew for all the 50 years of maintenance.
ESPECIALLY the nuts, which flare themselves over time/work.
Why do you think US manufacturers don't use them?
Water.
Sure, he's going DOT 5 NOW, but all those lines had puddled water sitting on the insides.
The outside may look just fine, but do you have an inexpensive way to check wall thickness on every nanometer?

How are you going to insure they are not cracked, nor a crack starting somewhere?

Weak Link theory.
You do all the rest, new, the next weakest link will break.

Not sure how long this particular vehicle has sit, but if it was me, I'd replace them.
 
Seeing that photo, I have no doubt, if it was mine, the lines would be NEW.
 
I suppose I have a little different perspective from all the people in nice warm states, but I think I live in a place much more like New York, at least with the cold, snow and most of all salt.

I feel I am very fortunate that they allow (and even encourage) copper brake lines for cars. I won't say that they never need replacing, but they don't fail. Steel lines rust... period.

I had been driving an Austin America when a rusted steel pipe burst under hard braking. It ain't fun!

As for flexible brake hoses, having done inspections on cars for quite some time, I have found that they don't have to be cracked to be defective. I have seen hundreds of lines that were breaking apart, about to break apart, clogged etc, without any noticeable indication from outward inspection.

It's cheap insurance to replace them. (and most probably necessary anyway)
 
Howdy Folks,

In my opinion; No matter what the cond. of the car or What the intent is (Body Off or just a LTC); I personally would`nt skimp "Anywhere" on the Brakes. I would like to have that "Piece of Mind" that my TR is going to "Stop" without thinking about "What If" I did or did`nt do to the brakes. Is the "Piece of Mind" worth a few extra $$$ & Time? Again, In my opinion; "DEFINITELY"!!

Just my $.02,

Russ
 
Tex, your car is over 50 years old, and your brakes lines are exterior coated galvanize steel. Brake fluid is hydroscopic which mean that it absorbs water, when you mix water with steel you have disambiguation. Your observation is based on the exterior appearance only, so your assumption is only a 50% probability. I don’t play those kind of odds, their not in my favor, so stay with the safe play!!!!
 
Just so you don't forget it when ordering brake/hydraulic parts, that rubber line from the clutch hard line to the slave cylinder likely needs renewing.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Just so you don't forget it when ordering brake/hydraulic parts, that rubber line from the clutch hard line to the slave cylinder likely needs renewing.
Click to expand...

thanks - just added that to the list.
 
A couple of suggestions. You may want to use stainless steel flex brake lines when you replace the flex brake lines to the front calipers. Also if you are going to send out your calipers to be rebuilt why not send out your master cylinders and slave cylinder to be rebuilt at the same time. If your cylinders are original Girling products I'd go this route. Good luck.
 
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