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Brake rod questions

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ichthos

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I only have two parts left to complete my Bugeye disc brake conversion. I was told I would need two brake rods from a later model Sprite. Are these the same things as the emergency brake transverse rods? Would someone happen to have a picture of these?
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Kevin
 
If you upgraded the rear drum setup to the newer setup yes you need the newer handbrake connecting rods. They are a different length than the MKI rear setup.
I think adjustable length rods are available if you did not scavenge them from a newer car.
However, I believe (been a while since I did the conversion) the MC pushrods are slightly different between the 7/8 and 3/4 inch Master cylinders.
Depends on what you were told and by who
 
So, I guess I am a little confused. I am not going to touch my rear shoe at this time. Gerard modified my 7/8 cylinder down 3/4. I guess I don’t understand why I need different rods since I am not messing with the rear brakes at all.
 
So here is information I copied from a response to my inquiry from Lew McCallan. He's relocated back to AUS after being here in the US for a number of years.

Good to hear from you. This was actually a tip from Gerard, who as you know is a Morris Minor Guru and knows more than most about Sprites as well. He can supply the best quality ones. The word is that it makes the brakes feel more responsive, lighter. With the 7/8" bore wheel cylinders, when you change to 3/4" Master, the brakes feel hard, heavy.

It is a straight swap as the format is the same as a bugeye with the lever in the correct orientation. (see below). If you change to later spec Sprite brakes you need to change the backing plates and the handbrake rods, because the bugeye rods are a different orientation. You have done this on your car if I recall.(Yes I havedone so) Do the rods hit the suspension vertical ?( No they do not)

Not sure if Gerard is still ordering parts and pieces he's pretty much gotten out of the business. Google Morris Minor Parts or someone here will provide a name of alternate suppliers. Does this answer your questions?
 

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I just checked my spares pile. The 3/4 inch cylinders have different pistons design so require different push rods.
 
Thanks Jim and Joe. So, to clarify, the reason to upgrade the rear shoe brakes is because it makes the braking feel more responsive and lighter with my re-sleeved 3/4” master cylinder? Would the front disc brake conversion still make a noticeable change in braking without changing the rear brakes at this time? To convert the rear brakes to go along with my front disc brake conversion, I would need later backing plates, shoes, springs, 3/4” rear wheel cylinders, and rear hand brake rods. The drums are the same. Would I need different rear brake lines too? Is there anything wrong with just doing the front disk brake conversion first, driving it and then deciding if I want to do the rear?
 
IMHO, The rear brakes do not do a lot in stopping Sprites. On my FP car I changed my rears over to disks (a real lot of work) and did not see much improvement in the stopping. Brake Master was a Tilton setup. Front brakes do 90% of the work
The only reason I changed my street BE to the new system is for maintenance and cost issues. The old brake cylinders were very prone to seizing, especially id not driven a lot and it was a pain to make adjustments. Also I had all the parts sitting around from several salvaged cars. Yes you need everything you mentioned. I do not notice much difference between the old and new rear brake setups on my street car. I do not know where you found the front disc set up but if off a salvaged car try to get the parts of it.
 
After driving Bugsy fit with 3/4” Master and 3/4”wheel Cylinders, braking effort and stopping power and balance is significantly better than with Disks and 7/8” Master and 7/8” wheel cylinders. There is a reason why the factory changed MC and rear Wheel cylinders to 3/4” as standard on all Spridgets when they went to front discs. It’s all about balance and pedal pressure. When I first drove my friends BE w 7/8” MC and stick BE Rear brakes I was scared stepping on the brake pedal worried would I stop. Pedal pressure much higher than on Bugsy. He’s since due to component failures gone to 3/4” MC and 3/4” rear wheel cylinders. Now just like my car proper balance and brake pedal pressure. If nothing else go to the MM 3/4” wheel cylinders in rear. They simply bolt in place. IMHO of course. I know what works for me.
 
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