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TR6 Brake MC and bleeding TR6

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tr6web

tr6web

Jedi Trainee
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Ok, now that I've rebuilt the brake MC (very easy by the way), any suggestions on refilling the MC and bleeding? I know how to bleed, but how about refilling it? Do I refill it, bleed a little until there's no air left and then top it up? That kind of info. Thanks everyone.
 
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Do I refill it, bleed a little until there's no air left and then top it up?

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That works. To save time and eliminate having an assistant pump the brake pedal, you should consider vacuum dragging the fluid through each bleed nipple using a Mityvac.

Rick O.
 
I've seen them at Sears and Advance Auto. Be sure to wrap the threads of each bleed nipple with teflon tape (or ther goop of choice) and only crack them open a fraction of a turn. This will minimize the amount of air getting sucked by the nipple threads and make it easier to tell when you've got all the air out.
 
$30 to $40 for the kit if I recall correctly. Sounds expensive, but you'll get good use from it. Also good for reading intake vacuum to diagnose valve train condition if you insert a T-fitting in the hose running to your brake servo.
 
I have used the MityVac for 15 years or so for a variety of things but was never particularly satisfied with it as a vacuum bleeder. I do use teflon on the threads to keep air out but never seem to get a really air tight fit with those attachments. Still it has many other uses and indeed the attachments and bleed bottle are still useful for conventional bleeding (good chance to involve SWMBO in some TR maintenance).

You do not say which fluid you are using, if DOT5 you would do well to pour it down along the blade of a very clean screwdriver to reduce bubbles. If you pour the usual way little bubbles get suspended in the fluid in the reservoir and take a loooong time to float away.
 
I prefer Gunson's Eezi-Bleed. I purchased it from Victoria British quite a few years ago and it works off of 9lbs pressure on your spare tire, flushing out the old fluid and sucking in new. It's like a pressurized faucet. Just fit an air tube to your master cylinder cap, attach the air tube to your spare tire, open the bleed valve, and it flushes out the old dirty fluid and sucks in the new clean fluid. It's the easiest, best system I've ever used, and it also works for the clutch master cylinder. I believe it's manufactured in Sweden. Make sure you follow the correct sequential procedure for which line to bleed first. Cost for the Eezi-Bleed System was around $30. IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE. Also, if you use regular hydraulic fluid, make sure to use ONLY Castrol-Girling. Anything else deteriorates rubber components in the master cylinder.
 
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