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BRAKE MASTER REBUILD

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MikeH

Jedi Hopeful
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Hi All, Working on rebuilding the brake master cylinder in my 71 MGB. This is the tandom system without servo. Anyway, there is a white nylon bushing at the front of the cylinder held in by a c clip. This bushing won't budge, any idea on removal appreciated. Thanks, Mike

71 MGB OD and Wires
63 TR4 Surrey Top
 
I use an icepick. Last time I did this, I heated the tip with a torch and stuffed it into the bushing; let it cool and pull it out.
 
Ugh, I had a similar nylon bushing in the Midget's master cylinder. The method I came up with (and others have as well) is to carefully drill a couple of holes in it, thread a couple of screws into it, and pull it out. Mine was very stubborn though, and I ended up drilling it into Swiss cheese and taking it out in pieces. Good luck!
 
It sure is,drilling the thing was the way I removed this bush too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

Stuart. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Very big difference, Vince. Yours is a single stage cylinder. Tyhe other has a seperate set of "chambers" (fore-aft) to add a bit of "safety" to the system: Front brakes go out, you'd still have rears and vice-versa. But it does make for a more challenging rebuild exercise.
 
So if MY brakes go, I crash & burn or U brake and an OMG?
I really hope all of my rebuilds are up to snuff. I really took my time and made sure I did it right.
 
Just make sure your hand brake works...and that you know how to use it to stop the car in the event of hydraulic failure...push the button and pull carefully. Avoid locking up the rear wheels, since that is where all the braking is taking place. Everyone should practice this occasionally IMHO.

Bruce
 
mehheh. "Practice, practice, practice!"

I won't relate how many times I've had MC failures and NOT shunted as a result. It's another case of: "Be One With the Horse!" -- the failure is usually "announced" in subtle ways LONG before it becomes an issue. You just need to learn to have "Simpatico with the equipment."


...and there's always compression braking coupled with the E-brake! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
Truth to tell: a fair bit of repetitive pedal stabbing and the panic is over. Then you just gotta be "judicious" about the trip back to the barn. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I've driven 3 cars with no hydraulics, and 2 of them had no rear (or emergency) brakes either... Drove one of them 15 blocks from red light to red light back to work (I was on my lunch break when they failed). Going slow, and leaving lots of room in front of you is paramount!
 
KP III Wrote: [ QUOTE ]
Going slow, and leaving lots of room in front of you is paramount!

[/ QUOTE ]

Ya THINK?!?! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
Having a lightweight car helps too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
And good soles on yer shoes... 'specially the left one.
 
I thought that handle with the botton on it was for spinning around in the snow?
 
Having successfully removed the nylon bushing, I'm now stuck at the next C-clip. My C-Clip removing tool does not have a long enough reach to remove the clip. Any sugestions? Thanks, Mike

71 MGB OD & Wires
63 TR4 Surrey Top
 
Mike, you may not like this but: Snap-On has a "long reach" set. Track down a truck if you don't know one.
 
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