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Brake lines
- Thread starter 2033husky
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Russ Austin
Jedi Warrior
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Check this out from The Eastwood Co. https://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/produ...p;keyword=49074
I beleive this is what will do the trick.
Good Luck
I beleive this is what will do the trick.
Good Luck
LastDeadLast
Jedi Knight
Offline
Yep,
https://www.classictube.com/index.asp
The Triumph stuff is a little hidden. Call them and tell them your chassis number and they'll fix you up. They carry the "regular" kind and stainless steel.
https://www.classictube.com/index.asp
The Triumph stuff is a little hidden. Call them and tell them your chassis number and they'll fix you up. They carry the "regular" kind and stainless steel.
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
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I have those pliers - they are excellent.
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In absence of those pliers, tubing can easily be bent 'freehand'; however, it must be done around a 'mandrel'! That mandrel need be nothing more than the neck or other part of a beer bottle, or a piece of plastic or other pipe, or a table leg, or...hopefully you get the idea.
Some folks advocate filling the line with sand before bending. That also will keep the tube from kinking, but I've never felt comfortable introducing much of anything other than brake fluid into a brake line! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Some folks advocate filling the line with sand before bending. That also will keep the tube from kinking, but I've never felt comfortable introducing much of anything other than brake fluid into a brake line! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
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Husky,
Another option is to use the kit that Moss sells. This kit consists of every piece you will need and each piece is bent by hand, no tool needed whatsoever. The tubing is made out of a copper/nickel alloy that is totally safe to use. I have had mine for five years with zero problems. Now this is not straight copper tubing, which is totally unacceptable. The copper/nickel alloy is used in a lot of high dollar European cars and works very well. The kit is excellant quality and contains every bit of pipe you will need to completely redo the who car, with all fittings in place. Just bend and connect. Cannot remember the name of the product but I am sure that a Moss salesperson can put their finger on it. It might even be in their online catalog.
Bill
Another option is to use the kit that Moss sells. This kit consists of every piece you will need and each piece is bent by hand, no tool needed whatsoever. The tubing is made out of a copper/nickel alloy that is totally safe to use. I have had mine for five years with zero problems. Now this is not straight copper tubing, which is totally unacceptable. The copper/nickel alloy is used in a lot of high dollar European cars and works very well. The kit is excellant quality and contains every bit of pipe you will need to completely redo the who car, with all fittings in place. Just bend and connect. Cannot remember the name of the product but I am sure that a Moss salesperson can put their finger on it. It might even be in their online catalog.
Bill
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Isn't that a variation of the old "BundyFlex" tubing that was an alloy of both, with the nickel for strength and the copper for bend-ability?
This tubing can be doubled flared as well without splitting which is a safety requirement in most states for any brake line application due to the high pressure generated in the system.
Having bent many a line over the years, I would buy a premade kit in a heartbeat over doing it myself. I used to have all of the spring formers to keep the kinks out and it was still a pain.
This tubing can be doubled flared as well without splitting which is a safety requirement in most states for any brake line application due to the high pressure generated in the system.
Having bent many a line over the years, I would buy a premade kit in a heartbeat over doing it myself. I used to have all of the spring formers to keep the kinks out and it was still a pain.
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
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Not sure, thought it was Kunifer or something like that. The kit I bought was made in Germany, I think. All fittings were perfect fits, no tools needed except some box wrenches to tighten down. 90%Copper/10%Nickel.
Really easy to bend in tight archs with very little possibility of kinking or collapsing a pipe. Again, strickly with firm finger pressure.
Cool stuff.
Bill
Really easy to bend in tight archs with very little possibility of kinking or collapsing a pipe. Again, strickly with firm finger pressure.
Cool stuff.
Bill
milemarker60
Senior Member
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I have to chime in for Classic Tube as well. I ordered a set of stainless pre-bent lines for my 73 TR6 and they were literally perfect. Absolutely no tweaking was necesarry and they had all the correct fittings.
And, they were pretty dang cheap to boot compared to most of my parts I sourced.
And, they were pretty dang cheap to boot compared to most of my parts I sourced.
LastDeadLast
Jedi Knight
Offline
Dave,
Thanks for the review, I ordered from them as well, but I haven't received the shipment yet.
Thanks for the review, I ordered from them as well, but I haven't received the shipment yet.
Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,
I agree the "Kunifer" lines are pretty darned good and relatively easy to install. Hardest thing about it is straightening the coiled lines when the kit arrives.
I also felt compelled to shorten a few of the runs that are purposely left long in the kit, so ended up flaring a few fittings.
I do think the kit "missed the boat" a little by not including a clutch hydraulic line. (Or the vendors - if any are listening - would do well to start carrying a nice, matching one, to make available if it's not added to the kits in the future.)
Next step up, IMHO, would be stainless steel, but it's a lot tougher stuff to work with. Really requires a perfectly made up kit, or special flaring tools if any cutting is needed. It's also quite a bit more expensive.
I did find a tubing bender handy to make nice, clean bends. And I avoided the lime green "plastic pegs" that were supplied with the kit to mount the lines to the frame. Could have reused the original brake line mounting clips, or bought new repros. Instead I used rubber-lined stainless steel clamps that are held to the frame with rivnuts, stainless steel screws and Locktite. Takes a little longer to do this, just my prefered method for securing those lines (and fuel lines).
I'd recommend the Kunifer kits, which are available from all the major vendors. There usually will be some left over pieces, as the kits cover several models. If you do any flaring, carefully check the old line first. Some fittings on Triumphs are double flares, others are "British bubble", which is essentiall an incomplete flare.
Woah! I've heard of putting sand inside pipe when bending it, but never heard of doing it with brake lines! I think I'd avoid that like the plaque, just due to the distinct possiblity of contaminating the system.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
I agree the "Kunifer" lines are pretty darned good and relatively easy to install. Hardest thing about it is straightening the coiled lines when the kit arrives.
I also felt compelled to shorten a few of the runs that are purposely left long in the kit, so ended up flaring a few fittings.
I do think the kit "missed the boat" a little by not including a clutch hydraulic line. (Or the vendors - if any are listening - would do well to start carrying a nice, matching one, to make available if it's not added to the kits in the future.)
Next step up, IMHO, would be stainless steel, but it's a lot tougher stuff to work with. Really requires a perfectly made up kit, or special flaring tools if any cutting is needed. It's also quite a bit more expensive.
I did find a tubing bender handy to make nice, clean bends. And I avoided the lime green "plastic pegs" that were supplied with the kit to mount the lines to the frame. Could have reused the original brake line mounting clips, or bought new repros. Instead I used rubber-lined stainless steel clamps that are held to the frame with rivnuts, stainless steel screws and Locktite. Takes a little longer to do this, just my prefered method for securing those lines (and fuel lines).
I'd recommend the Kunifer kits, which are available from all the major vendors. There usually will be some left over pieces, as the kits cover several models. If you do any flaring, carefully check the old line first. Some fittings on Triumphs are double flares, others are "British bubble", which is essentiall an incomplete flare.
Woah! I've heard of putting sand inside pipe when bending it, but never heard of doing it with brake lines! I think I'd avoid that like the plaque, just due to the distinct possiblity of contaminating the system.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif