Brake Line Routing

[Cutlass]

Well, upon disassembly two years ago, I just didn't take quite enough pictures or notes. So now as I install new brake lines, a bit of confusion reighs. I'm pretty sure that the pipe from the servo (nearest the can) goes rather directly to the stop light switch union. It makes further sense that the pipe from the outermost end of the servo cylinder goes to the four way union. The other three connections there go to the two front brakes and the rear brakes. That leaves the pipe from the master cylinder going to the brake light switch union. My photos cover the rear brakes pretty well. So am I right in general about the routing? The more complicated question is the exact route these pipes take relative to the chassis, especially the front crossmember. By the way, I did save most of the old pipes for reference, but some were just too butchered to save for anything. Thanks in advance.

 

[Keoke]

HI Cutlass, hopefully someone will have a picture for you with the engine out.In the mean time the line routed across the front crossmember is retained by two of those snap in clips on the top and adjacent to the welded joint.Look there you will see the little holes for the clips.--Fwiw---Keoke

 

[Cutlass]

Thanks. Actually I replaced the front crossmember (as well as the rear crossmember and just about everything else within twelve inches of the ground), but did match the holes on the old one to the new one. My photos show one brake line traveling in front of the front crossmember, which appears to go to the left front brake. Is this correct? If so, how does the pipe from the master cylinder on the driver's side of the car get to the servo on the passenger's side?

 

[ronzet]

Cutlass, I do not know if this makes a difference, but, what model Healey are you rebuilding?? I just finished re-piping a BN4 and may shed some light on the topic..
Ron

 

[Cutlass]

Ronzet: It's a 1966 BJ8.

 

[shorn]

Well if we are talking about a Healey with a servo unit, I am assuming a BJ8, so here it goes and bear with me. Left will equal driver's side, right = passenger side. The pipe from the MC goes down the left diagonal frame member that goes under the left shock mount. The pipe bends and goes along the back of the front cross frame member and back up the right diagonal frame member coming from the right shock mount to the 3 way coupler which sits behind the rear horn on the inside fender well. The brake light switch is connected to that coupler and the other opening connects the pipe that goes down to the servo. I have an after market servo, so my
routing might be slightly different than the original.
From the servo the piping goes to the 4 way coupler that bolts to the right diagonal frame member which sits under the horns. The bolt connection on that frame member is raised and is very apparent. The pipe from the servo goes into the longer end of the coupler for orientation. The pipe coming out of the upper most opening of the 4 way coupler goes to the right front brake. The lower forward opening is for the pipe that goes to the left front brake. That pipe goes down that diagonal right frame member, across the back of the front frame cross member, and to the left front brake. The lower back opening on the coupler connects the pipe that runs down the inside of the right frame member to the back of the car for the rear brakes. Hope that helps and is not to complicated. My engine is in the car, so it would be difficult to take pics.

 

[Cutlass]

All that makes perfect sense. Thanks a bunch. Just to be sure, since my car had the left front pipe on the front of the crossmember, you are saying that the pipe from the master cylinder to the three way union (with the switch) and the left front pipe both go on the rear of the front crossmember?

 

[ronzet]

Cutlass, I concur with Shorn... both pipes run behind the front crossmember on my BN4.... just make sure they have nice clean bends and are secured with clips to prevent any undesired interferrence with moving parts...

Ron

 

[shorn]

Well, I am glad you made me go look again as I misstated it. Both actually go on top of that cross member. The pipe from the MC to the 3way is on top but in back of the weld bead that is roughly in the center of the top. The pipe that goes to the left brake sits on top but forward of the weld bead. That pipe actually goes forward at the very left side of the cross member when it goes to the left forward brake. My fuel line actually goes on the back of that cross member. Hope this clarifies things. Again this is my 64 phase 1 BJ8, but the brake lines are original, so I assume they are as per factory with the exception of the 3 way to the after market servo.
John's #2 pic shows it pretty well in the next post.

 

[John Loftus]

Here's a few pictures of the brake line routing on a BJ8

1 2 3

 

[Cutlass]

Thanks. The clips are on the way. I'm using the Moss copper/nickel pipes. Certainly not like original, but easy to work with. On top of that, they polish up nicely with a bit of metal polish and a rag. A clear coat of rattle can helps them stay pretty.

 

[ronzet]

I guess the BJ8 has the same routing as my BN4...
Ron

 

[GregW]

Hi Cutlass,
Here is how my union was plumbed.

 

[GregW]

And the stop light switch.

 

[Cutlass]

Thanks to all! I did install the master to switch pipe last night, and except for the fact that the pipe was about ten inches too long (better than too short), it looks great. Glad I transferred the holes from the old crossmember to the new one.

 

[Johnny]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks. The clips are on the way. I'm using the Moss copper/nickel pipes. Certainly not like original, but easy to work with. On top of that, they polish up nicely with a bit of metal polish and a rag. A clear coat of rattle can helps them stay pretty.

[/ QUOTE ]
I agree Cutlass, the copper/nickel is easier to work with and looks better. I bought mine from "Automec" in UK. Did you have all the correct end fittings included? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Cutlass]

So far, all the right fittings are there. Only glitch is that one line was a bit too long. After bending and fitting, I remove them and polish with a paste polish, spray with clear enamel, and replace. They look great.