• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Brake Line Removal From the Left Frame Rail

Share this page

M

mastaphixa

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
Offline
I've disc disconnected the brake line going to the rear brakes at the 5 way fitting and from the flex line just in front of the rear axle. I have removed it from all the retaining clips. I can slide it a good ways aft, but the loop that goes around the jacking point is preventing me from removing it from the frame. I am wondering just how this line is supposed to be removed without destroying it. I can see that I will add a coupling at a strategic point to allow for a 2 piece line in the future, but I was wondering how the heck they got it in there at the factory!
 
I thought brake line is on the right and the fuel on the left, but I would have to crawl under to be sure. I replace that line before, but I had the body off, so not sure, but it did not seem like it would hit anything, but it sounds like it does. If I have time today, and I think I am going to change oil soon, I will check if you do not find out.
 
Looking at old films our cars were put together on racks that rotated so line were ahead of bodies wheels and running gear. If bending will help using a long screen door spring around your line will allow you to bend and not kink your line. I added the same spring on my fuel line from fuel pump to carbs. next to head to offset heat on my TR 6 1973. Best of luck. Madflyer
 
I can tell you that it is an easy job to put it in from the top without a body on the frame. I would expect that was what they did at the factory. Assemble the frame with all components prior to fitting the body on the frame.
Yes the brake line does run down the right side of the frame.
 
Looking at my brake line it looks like you need to move it back as far as you can then get the front end of the pipe out from the hole in the frame. Then move it forward. Some bending may be necessary.

I also put the pipe in from the top working with a straight length of pipe. I did end up with some extra pipe so I made a second double bend like the one around the jacking point.

David
 
It is tricky with the body off, and you should not have to bend or damage it in any way to do it. But, I do not think it is possible with the body on.
 
I would not cut and splice pipe but they do have fittings that could be used if flared fittings were done maybe at a hydro shop. The spring is the only other idea I had.

Madflyer
 
Thanks all, of course I got my left and right mixed up. I am indeed referencing the right hand frame rail.
 
I think David is right, push it to the rear and get the front out then go forward to get the rear out, with lots of twisting and turning and a few voice words usually helps.

Graham
 
Never add a coupler on a brake line. Just another source of leaks and possibility of failure. I once saw 4 couplers on a line, two of them leaked. Also, one morning I heard pounding and my neighbor had a brake line rust thru in an old Pontiac so he hammererd it shut. By the time he was at the end of the street he did not make the stop sign.
 
Working on a lift is probable a must to do this job. I have an inspection pit which makes life under the car easier.

David
 
Looked at the pits, our codes won't allow them. Don't have room for lift, ceiling and doors too low. When I move, I will have one or the other, for sure.
 
As for lifts One of my members for his two LBC's and has a HYD lift that slides under car goes up 3 plus feet 110 volt pump sits out of the way when not in use. I will get CO. and post same .

Madflyer
 
I am guessing, but not sure. I would lift up the passenger side as high as I could use jack stands yada yada, and I think it will slide out front to back or back to front and maybe both. I liked Madfler’s idea about a screen door spring or something on the line if things get touchy.
 
LarryK said:
Looked at the pits, our codes won't allow them. Don't have room for lift, ceiling and doors too low. When I move, I will have one or the other, for sure.
Click to expand...

This year I installed a MaxJax 2 arm lift, with my 8' ceiling. If you have a std garage door then you also have 8' of clearance. It puts the car just high enough to wheel around with a stool and not hit my head. So much easier after 40 some years of scoobying under jack stands. It's also portable, so remove 5 nuts and roll it back out of the way when done.

https://www.maxjax.com/?gclid=Cj0KC...plHIDXxFpR1ANFHQUQ0vP7w0cF_dsyaoaAr-FEALw_wcB
 
Back
Top