brake light switch on BN6

[bighealeysource]

Figures, get my brakes working perfect and now my brake light switch has apparently gone kaput. Checked it electrically and
works fine if you jump it but no brake lights otherwise. Assume it uses a plunger of some type that moves via hydraulic pressure and now it is not moving. Tried the old tapping on it with a metal object approach and still no luck. From the looks of it no big deal to remove but also looks like I will have to rebleed the brakes once again. Anything else I can check before I take out the old one and put a new one in ?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[John Turney]

If you jumped the switch itself and the brake lights light up, that's your problem. The circuit goes through the 8-way flasher relay of course, so don't bypass it when using the jumper wire.

 

[Keoke]

Replacing brake light switch on BN6

. From the looks of it no big deal to remove.

Yeah it is pretty simple.


I will have to rebleed the brakes again

Well you might but generally this is not required.


Anything else I can check before I take out the old one and put a new one in ?

You might carefully prime the new switch with a lttle brake fluid before installing it.--Fwiw--Keoke

 

[Randy Forbes]

Okay, this is a BJ8 brakelight switch (Lucar terminals) but notice the copper sealing washer on the tapered seat; the BN6 may or may not have a similar seal, but you should be on the look out for it, and replace it if it does.

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey Randy,
Went in and replaced the same style switch as you show as my BN6 had
the Lucar terminals. Got a new switch from Moss and it did not include
the small copper washer. Thought it got a good seal without it but
getting very minor leakage so obviously not sealed all the way. You have
any idea where to get a copper washer like shown in your pictures or could I
use teflon tape or something similar ?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Randy Forbes]

Answered your PM a minute ago...

 

[RAC68]

Hi Mike,

Had the same problem and replaced the switch with no issue. I have heard that replacement switches are not as reliable as I would like. Since I did not want to be without brake lights (and not know it), I decided to add an electrical brake switch in parallel. Since the original is still in place and the electrical unit is relatively hidden (attached to the heater plenum and activated by movement of the brake peddle), all looks original. Having them in parallel provides for both to work simultaneously and backup each other. I have also noticed that light response from the electrical switch is faster than the original.

Although I secured my switch in a salvage yard, many other Healey owners have purchased a unit used on hot rods (Watson’s Street Works Switch #L08). John Sims, on www.healey6.com has described his installation.

All the best,
Ray 64BJ8P1

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey all,
Another question for you on this subject - I cannot find a replacement
copper washer as shown in Randy's pictures. New one did not come with
one and old one did not have it in there. Do y'all think a rubber O ring
the correct size might help make a tighter seal if placed up against the
threaded portion ? Obviously will not go around the shaft but at the bottom
so when threaded down make a tight seal. I am still using silicone brake
fluid - I know Randy, I was going to change it but haven't done that yet - so would not think the rubber would break down with silicone brake fluid.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[GregW]

Hi Mike,
Personally, I'd wouldn't do an O-ring there. I looked at AH spares site and they show the washer but give no part number for it. I'd give British Car Specialists a call. They list copper washers for the brake system, but don't specify the exact application.

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey all,
E-mailed AH Spares and heard back from them that they do sell the copper
washers needed for the brake light switch. Their cost was 2.80 pounds for the
two different sizes available.
Regards,
Mike