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Brake/Clutch Reservoir

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vette

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Does anyone know of one of the usual or unusual suspects that might supply dual separate reservoirs for the brake and clutch. Thanks.
 
Thanks guys. I think what I am looking for are 2 plastic bottles with hose nipples. The reason I want to do this is because I am frustrated with the metal cans. I had the original metal can on my Healey for ten years and then it started to leak at the fitting joint where it entered the can. I rebuilt it with new washers and it didn't even last the summer. When I retored my healey i bought a new can and it has only been on there 3 years and yesterday it leaked a puddle on the floor. I at first tried to tighten up the nipples in the can, and also the line fitting. Nothing I did would stop it from leaking. So I removed it and cleaned everything up and reinstalled the fittings and it looked good. It held fluid for about a day. Today the bottom of the can was wet again. But now it seems that the bottom seam is leaking. I don't think I abused it when I worked on it, but obviously this can is shot. The things just seem too delicate. But tomorrow I will call Healey Surgeons and give the original design on more chance. If I have trouble again I'm going to install two plastic reservoirs with hoses. Plastic reservoirs with extrueded nipples because I want to get away from any threaded joint thru the bottle. But I am having trouble locating the small profile bottles. I have looked on Summit Racing, DWR, and Factory Five and am not finding what I want. I thought someone on the forum that had a race Healey showed pictures of 2 or 3 separate bottles.
Thanks for the help. Dave.
 
In the past there was discussion of leaks. From that, I seem to remember that copper washers are incompatible with brake fluid. Someone was suggesting the metal washers that have a rubber o-ring built in. I forget the name of the washer.
 
Could be a QA issue? I've had a 'double' can in my BJ8 for over 20 years with no leaks, and a 'single' in the BN2 for at least 6 or 7 years - no leaks. FWIW, I use silicone BF in the '8, DoT 4 in the '2.
 
This is the kind of thing that just drives ya nuts. It's a simple thing but just can't make it right. I'm the kind of person that is just bull headed enough to believe I SHOULD be able to make this thing seal. And I find it really hard to believe that the seam is leaking. This new can has the washers with the rubber seal in the inner circle of the washer but when you take the fittings out of the can it pulls on the rubber really bad and I believe they then won't seal. With the old can, (it had aluminum washers) i tried aluminum and copper and could not get it to seal.
I believe tomorrow I will take the new one out again and inspect it throughly before I buy another one. When I put the fittings in it the other day, I tightened the nuts from the inside, doing the brake side first then inserting the clutch inner tube and tightening the clutch side. I then plugged the openings and filled it with water and let is set for about 15 minutes and the fittings and bottom of the can stayed dry. After I installed it, it started to leak again. Arrrg.
I did find a Wilwood Reservoir at Summit that I think will work. #260-10500. So I don't know yet if I'll go that route. Thanks again.
 
Dowty sealing washers, 1/2" ID are the way to go with the stock tanks - this installation is a couple of years old:

ReservoirsBottomFittings.jpg
DowtyWasherPegasus.jpg
 
vette said:
....when you take the fittings out of the can it pulls on the rubber really bad....
Click to expand...

Vette,
The above seems to imply you're using the wrong washer if it gets tortured when you tighten it enough to be difficult to remove. The advantage of the Dowty design is you can tighten it really well without distortion of the seal.
 
Thanks Steve. On this can that is just 3 years old, it had washers that had rubber in the middle. They did not look or fit the description that is written above for the Dowty washers. They were very thin. Anyway, when I unthreaded the nuts on the inside the male fitting still would not come free of the can because the rubber of the washers was sticking to the male shaft. I could not get the male fitting out even by twisting it. I had to support the bottom surface of the can and drive the male fittings out with a drift. This of course pretty much destroyed the rubber or pulled it somewhat. So that each time i tried to reseal the fittings the washer became looser.
The Dowty washers look like good items and your pics show a good job. I will order some for my inventory but I have also just ordered a new can from Healey Surgeons.
Today I took the leaky can back out of the Healey. I just can't keep from trying some ideas. So just about an hour ago I decided to reinstall the fittings with the rubber centered washers and I painted the washers with Copper Coat before I installed them. I'm just curious if it will work.
 
Try car builder solutions to buy the plastic reservoirs and fittings. Good value good quality UK based but the dollar is in the us favour at present.
Andy
 
Thanks Haasad. On a quick look it appears that their bottle might be a wee bit larger than I wanted. I will try the repo can from Healey Surgeons first.
 
If you look in my albums theres an engine bay pic of my 64 prior to restoration . It has a full stainless hand made reservoir made by the previous owner . I kept it off the restored 64 so I can use it on my in progress Tri-Carb . Its a gorgeous piece of craftsmanship . The lid is billet stainless all hand turned and indexed for added grip .
 
The original washers were plain aluminum and I found them at the local Ace Hardware , no leaks . E types use a simple plastic bottle for reservoirs , should be easy to source also.
 
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