brake/clutch fluid reservoir

[Jim_Newman]

After 52 years in service, it's time to replace the fluid reservoirs (it has two because of an earlier installation of a brake servo unit from a BJ8).
I'm sure someone out there in BCFland has done this.
There is of course no drain plug for the tanks so what is the best/easiest way to make the swap without getting brake fluid everywhere? And will it require that the brakes be bled in the process? (I've never actually done that before).
As always, any advice or guidance is greatly appreciated.
Cheers:eagerness:

 

[TimK]

I'm not sure why you need to replace reservoirs. You can get rebuild kits to replace the seals. However, if the reservoirs are corroded then replacement may be necessary. Empty the reservoir with a bulb baster or just open one wheel bleed valve, connect a plastic tube leading to a container and pump the brakes until the reservoir is empty. Replacing or rebuilding the reservoirs will absolutely require bleeding to remove the air from the lines after you have drained them. Brake fluid should be replaced every three years to avoid parts corrosion from water in the fluid.

 

[bob hughes]

Slight correction to Tim's reply, you will need to drain down the clutch line as well, and as Tim says, you will need to bleed up everything once the new unit is installed.



Bob

 

[why]

This is frowned upon by the cogniscenti, but it works. Undo the connections from both clutch and brake lines and do best to keep themupright. You will find that the fluid level in these lines if not at the top of the connection can be brought there by just adding a drop or two to each line. Put the new resevoir in place, sort of so the lines in place are up against the fittinjgs at the bottom of the resevoir--meaning ready to be tighted. Each one at a time, fill the inner/outer compartment with an inch or two of fluid which will of course run out since the line has not been tightened, but that is the point, tighten the fitting as the fluid is leaking around it and that should fill-in any air gaps which will run out with the fluid. Then after both are done fill up the resevoir. If there is an air bubble it will be inconsequential. I did this method recently and it works just fine pedal feel. Also brake fluid has rust inhibitors etc, there is contention about whether, other than for racing, one ever realistically needs to change fluid. Have not changed it for ten/20 years in cars with/without ABS & no concerns. It has been so contentious on boards that goodness about 10 years ago someone offline let me know it is 30 years in truck and never changed.

Jay '65 3000

 

[TimK]

I never changed my Healey for 30 years until the front caliper started sticking (heating up the hub/wheel) and wore one pad nearly to the backing plate. Fortunately I caught it before it lost all the friction material. Upon taking apart the caliper I found a lot of crud in the fluid and corrosion on the walls of the piston. So I've been on both sides of the issue. Also Volvo recently came out with a 30,000 mile change interval in their maintenance schedule. You can get away with it if you're willing to risk the consequences. I neglected my 15 years old Villager and had the same symptoms -- a dragging caliper smoking brakes and having to remove the front wheel and pry out the pad so I could drive home on the emergency brake only. Replaced the calipers and changed the fluid. I also have flouted convention and have 23 years on my tires and probably will regret it. I don't drive far or fast, however.