I just installed SpeedBleeders on the brakes of my TR-250 last weekend. Given that my car was build before the metric change-over, I can't answer your question directly, but allow me to pass along a couple issues I discovered when bleeding the brakes using Speedbleeders. Let me say at the outset that I think it's a great product, and works exactly as advertised. Never had such an easy time bleeding my brakes, and was able to do it by myself. Brilliant little things and they appear well-made.
One thing to note when reading my story is that at least for the standard thread size, Speedbleed makes two lenghts, just like the standard bleeders that came with our cars. I ordered shorter ones for the rear, and longer ones for the calipers. The shorter ones had a short shaft, but a relatively tall nipple above the flats where you'd put a wrench. The longer one had a long shaft, but a very short nipple above the wrench flats.
First, Speedbleeders have a coating on the threads to ensure no air/fluid leakage, including when you're opening the bleeders a quarter turn to pump fluid out of them. I found that the coating made the bleeders rather tough to screw in when compared with my original bleeder screws, which were the originals (which never leaked). I felt that I had to use a lot more force to screw them in because of this coating than I was used to on traditional bleeder screws. I am certain the threads were lined up properly and were the right size -- it was clear that the coating was being extruded up through the threads. Interestingly, I started with a set of four of the shorter bleed screws, but these were almost impossible to get into the calipers up front. They went in ok in the back. The shorter ones used a grey coating on the threads. Indeed, I had thought I had them screwed all the way in up front and went to bleed the back, and fluid leaked out of the two screws in the calipers up front.
This caused me to remove the two shorter Speedbleeders installed up front, and replace them with a longer item. As noted above, Speedbleeder offers two lengths of Speedbleeder for regular threatds. The longer speedbleeders used a red coating on the threads that went into the calipers much much easier, and were easy to get in nice and snug.
Now for the other downside. Remember that the overall height of the nipple above the wrench flats on the longer Speedbleeders that I used on my calipers was shorter (go figure) than the ones I used on the back. The result was that a rubber hose would not stay on the nipple itself on the longer Speedbleed. There just wasn't enough to keep the hose on when I pushed the pedal. Moron that I am, I ended up finding this out the hard way -- I pushed the pedal and the hose came off the front Speedbleed and shot fluid out all over my suspension. However, this was easily remedied by putting the hose back on the Speedbleed, taking a trash bag twist-tie and twisting it around what little purchase there was. Once I did this, the hose stayed on nice and tight and it took about ten seconds to bleed the brakes.
Sorry if that doesn't make sense!
So, with a couple of small hiccups, they worked as advertised and made the operation a snap! I found that I still had some air or moisture trapped in the rear lines the next day, and all I had to do was back off the back Speedbleeds (one at a time, of course), pump the pedal four times, and then tighten it up. Couldn't have been easier. It is *so* easy that you have to keep an eye on the fluid level in the resevoir, especially the part for the rear brakes.
Enjoy!
Hey Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
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