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BPost patching?

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siberian

siberian

Freshman Member
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My BPosts are pretty solid on this TR6 but there is some slight decay at the top of each. Rather then replace the entire (very solid) part I'm thinking of taking an old b-post, cutting out the few inches of top section I need and replacing it into the existing b-post.

Here are some pics

Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3

What you see is what you get, the rest of the post is real nice so not much sense pulling the entire thing and replacing it with a lower quality aftermarket part if I don't have to.

Opinions? Anyone have some old bposts lying around from a replacement that they'll sell me for cheap?

John-
 
Hi,

From the looks of it, I'd guess it could be patched pretty easily. You might even be able to shape something out of a flat sheet of 18 gauge steel, rather than having to track down new or used replacement parts.

Have you looked at the inner B-post, near the floor, behind the trim panel? It's another common problem area on our cars. I hope it's okay on your car.

A good body repairman can make a patch invisible with some flanging and a skim coat of filler. Or, since this area sees constant bumping from opening and closing the door, lead body filler might be the best way to blend in a patch. Just a thought, not sure how far you want to take the repair.

Alan
 
funny you should mention the inside bottom of B posts Alan for I am in the middle of replacing rusted metal on the bottom inside of B posts,inner fender,top side area of outer rocker under B posts,and end cap on rocker leading bottom edge of wheel well. I am taking advantage while removing all the bad metal of replacing with 16 gauge to beef up this area as it is usually a weak spot flexing and mostly noticable when jacking the car up for as you open the door it can be hard to close. I added a section of metal splitting the B posts into two boxed in areas. This should give extra support to the post.
 
Any pics? Sounds like a worthwhile modification!

My lower b-posts look pretty good but I still have a bit of digging to go.

John

[ QUOTE ]
funny you should mention the inside bottom of B posts Alan for I am in the middle of replacing rusted metal on the bottom inside of B posts,inner fender,top side area of outer rocker under B posts,and end cap on rocker leading bottom edge of wheel well. I am taking advantage while removing all the bad metal of replacing with 16 gauge to beef up this area as it is usually a weak spot flexing and mostly noticable when jacking the car up for as you open the door it can be hard to close. I added a section of metal splitting the B posts into two boxed in areas. This should give extra support to the post.

[/ QUOTE ]
 
John, Sorry, I wish I was as good putting pictures on here as I am at patching metal on these old classic cars but unfortunatly havn,t figured it out yet. However, I started out with my upper 5 deck panels, fenders, outer fenders trunk lid, doors, front half of inner fenders and B post removed, drilling out all the spot welds, and started cutting out all rusted areas including small area in the floor bottom front edge of wheel well and last 5 inches of inner rocker also last 5 inches of top of rocker replaced all cut out metal with 16 gauge. Patched bottom edge of inner fender where it meets the floor and once I had the front half of inner fender welded back in the last 8 inches of inner and outer rocker top flange was left split apart and I placed a 4 X 11 inch piece of 16 gauge starting at the front flange that gets spot welded to the B post and had to put 2 45 degree bends in this 16 gauge 4 X 11 so that the back edge would line up with the rear flange of the B post. This 4 X 11 piece was plug welded on first, and then the B post was plug welded right over top so that you wouldn't even know it was in there unless you looked down from the top of the Bpost with a flash light. This extra reinforcement should keep the door from pinching the back side of your arm between the door and Bpost while your hitting the bumps and your tr body is flexing. and the other extra benefit is you will be able to open the door when the back of the car is jacked off the ground. I am planning to do the drivers side the same way. After the upper deck is welded in place I will be reinforcing the area in front of the gas tank behind the interior panel. If someone can help me put pictures on using the blue wording in my text to direct you, I will.
 
I'd love to post your pics, email them my way or I can give you an ftp to deposit them in.

Great description, I just found a ton of rust on my sills that will need patching so your photos would be super helful!

John-
 
John, I will take my digital camera with me to the shop and take some pictures and try to send them to you, I am half way through the drivers side repair and getting to the point of making the 4X11 reinforcement plate, so I,ll be able to show this in the pictures, stay tuned.
 
John, I tried to find your email address in order to send these pictures. Let me know if your interested, Vrod
 
You will NOT be able to make any good plan of repair until you have sandblasted this area clean. There are several panels that come together at this point and the level of damage to each should be checked out by a pro.
From my 36 yrs of triumph repair I would say your iceberg appears small,but the usually do.......
MD(mad dog)
 
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