BoxORocks was right.

[TexasKnucklehead]

Sometimes, people just need to hear it... er, in this case READ it, but a short time ago, BOXOROCKS replied to a question about getting captive nuts loose, and suggested using heat. This was news to me, I searched this forum for hints and saw many descriptions using heat on the nut and cooling it down with water.

Well, I had one body mount bolt broken off the TR3 in the outrigger on the frame. I heated it with my little MAPP gas torch until it was glowing, cooled it off with some water and grabbed the remains with vice-grips, and it twisted right out. -This was after many applications of PBlaster and trying to budge it with vice-grips.

Thanks to Box and all your posts, I'm learning.

PS Each time I see the name 'BoxORocks', I'm reminded of Charlie Brown going trick-or-treating, and getting "another rock"...

 

[DNK]

I wonder, Is it the bolt you are trying to get loose
Or
The captive nut?

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Well, the original post was about getting the bolts free from the captive nuts on body panels. My idea was simply to decaptivate the nuts, but Box insisted heat would free the bolts. In this post, I was freeing a broken bolt from a nut that was welded to the out-rigger. I suppose you could say that nut was captive, but differntly than the little metal tabs that hold most nuts captive. (Same soloution.)

I hope this clarifies my captive nut position and doesn't open the door to too many bad puns from the other captive nuts. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif