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Bonnet Latches - Looking for Options

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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I'm looking for options on forward tilt BE bonnet latches for Bugsy my '68 Sprite. I just managed to snap my 3rd bonnet latch that I sourced from Mini Mania. While these latches are priced right and would work fine for most forward tilt applications, they aren't heavy enough for my application. Bugsy's BE Bonnet has very little curve on the cowl side and as a result the bonnet latch is what is actually making the bonnet curve.

I am looking to see what others have used for this application, DZUS panel fasteners won't work as they simply aren't heavy enough. I need some sort of adjustable lever or spring or rubber bungy type latch for this application. Heavy enough to impart curve to the bonnet but yet with some give to it as the bonnet flexes under a pretty significant loading.

Who's got a source for parts for this application?
 
Trevor, BTW what are you using on Ugly Bug. I'm thinking some sort of rubber bungee with a T-Handle?
 
I have seen some Bugeyes using Spitfire latches. Tell me why you think you can't use DZUS fasteners? I ordered a kit from JEGS, which included some angle brackets. Also found an article somewhere (will look tonight) on using these on a similar application. I have a glass hood (bonnet) and I am tilting with the bumper. I am about to start drilling. I think I may need to use (2) DZUS fasteners on each side.
 
Paul,

Your fiberglass bonnet undoubtedly doesn't have the fit issues that a steel bonnet has. In my case the bonnet is almost totally flat across the top of the cowl. In spite of numerous attempts to tweak it to get a good curve in it, the only real solution is to drill out welds on the inner support, bend the proper curve into the top and then reweld. As it stands now I can get to fit and clamp down and panels line up pretty good but lots of torque needed to keep the panel curvature via latches. My alignment is not precise enough to use DZUS Button Type fasteners. When I hit a bump the force exerted on the latches is such that it breaks the latch. Since I still have an issue with bonnet rubbing on top of the radiator adding additional pressure on the bonnet, I need something spring loaded or rubber that can extert sufficient downward pressure to hold the back on the bonnet in place but still flex as needed with road vibrations and bumps.
 
I understand the issue of a steel bonnet not fitting accross the rear. I gave mine away and bought a new f'glass one from Spridgetech in Michigan. I ended up forking out near $800 (including freight). Resently I found a new glass bonnet locally that I am selling. You can see pictures on the yahoo Bugeye site. Don't ask me to send pictures as I find posting pictures a PIA. You can send me an e-mail at: montpaul@msn.com and I will try forward some pics to you.
 
Jim, where are the latches mounted now that you're having problems with? I've used a couple of different types of draw latchs on projects over the years and have two favorite types, the compression spring type and the turn to open type. McMaster Carr has a large selection in various sizes, take a look there, I'm sure you can find something that will mount cleanly and hold up to the vibration and pressure. https://www.mcmaster.com/# I'd think the number 1406A73 spring loaded turn to open latch shown on page 2931 would work great in your application. If you don't mind doing some sheet metal work you could also find a way to install one of their dual cable operated latches as shown on page 2926 which would be slick and hidden as well.
 
Jim:
What I did before I scrapped my steel bonnet was this. Open the bonnet, place a 4X4 in the center and take a couple of pipe clamps and pull the outsides down. This should help with the arch. Another thing I tried was trace the arch of the cowl (same as the arch of the bonnet) on a piece of 3?4" plywood, saw along this line then clamp the plywood to the back of the bonnet and pull in down the the desired shape. That may also work.
 
I am currently using Spitfire latches on a 'glas bonnet and they work great! They offer a real nice, positive "hold-down" and should work equally well on a steel bonnet I would think!
 
Bill,l

I'll take a look at McMaster Carr. Thanks for the tip.

Paul, you mentioned using a 4 x 4 in the center and using pipe clamps. I'm unsure where you are clamping to. My issue is back of cowl is so flat that clamping down one side of the bonnet has the other side by the seam sticking up 3" plus above where it should be as well as splayed out 4-5" on the unlatched side. Now I can push down and in fairly easily with 25-30 lbs I'll guess worth of force and get things to clamp down, but it takes that much force to get the bonnet to curve to the proper shape. I saw where someone on this list cut out the support welds underneath and then used a metal shrinker to mechanically induce the proper curve to get his bonnet to fit. I'm not ready to do that yet.

Other suggestions are a 4 x 4 across the top of the cowl and have one person on each side press down. The issue with that is the oops, we went too far and now there is a permanent crease in the bonnet.
 
Thanks Paul,

Good luck tonight. I took a look at McMaster Carr. Looks like there is stuff there I can use. The Twist Lock Bill mentioned is rated up to 500 lbs and there are some spring loaded latches as well designed to resist vibration. I think I found my source.
 
BTW, Latches are currently centered on bonnet behind front wheel. Again too much pressure beaks the one's I'm using now. The one's Bill suggested fit into a slot which would provide ront to back as well as sideways control to each side of the bonnet. And they are rated at 500 lbs working load. That definitely ought to do it and price at 10.35 each is quite reasonable from what I've seen. I'll provde a full report once I get installed. For now, a shoe string will hold one side of the bonnet down.
 
Back when I did a steel flip front, I used hot rod style hood pins to fasten the sides down. The pins are adjustable so you can tune the amount you need to pull the sides in. Worked great for me.

Sprite77e.jpg
 
Tks to all for the help.
 
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