Body shop time

[JPSmit]

If you look at the VB catalogue, the strips are for sale separately - also on sale.
Part #22

with good sills you likely don't need to add support (contradicting my earlier comment - doh!)

 

[Rut]

JP,
I know I need pans, VB # 21 X 2, Spring plates, # 27 X 2, Rear Bulkhead Strengthener, # 30 X 2, Floor strengthener, # 29 X 2, possibly spring box base plates, # 28 X 2, and a spring hanger box, # 31. VB # 22 looks like an edge repair strip that goes between # 29 and the sill, not the strip along the underside. Thoughts?
Thanks, Rut

 

[JPSmit]

Yup - Parts car

https://huntsville.craigslist.org/pts/2744294956.html

seriously, you might want to ask even around the board here if anyone has a solid floor they could cut out - they are interchangeable. You have $535 worth of parts before taxes and shipping.

OR

Looks like Moss MAYBE has the whole shebang for $359 - in which case jump on it!
(and see who locally gives the discount)

Floorpan complete

yes it is from a 1500 but only you will know that you have far superior floor pans to any of your BE compadres and what they don't know won't hurt them :wink:

 

[Rut]

JP,
The ones on my Bugeye are in pretty good shape and I guess I could reuse them...I also have a '73 parts car I could use. If I'm going to do this I want to do it right and new metal really appeals to me. This may sound odd, but the older I get the more I feel like a steward vs an owner. I want to pass this car on to my son when the time comes and hope that it's good for another 51 years. All the people on this forum make it possible.
Thanks, Rut

 

[racingenglishcars]

They don't normally come with the strips, though mine did. They also don't go all the way to the center. None do unless it comes as one-piece. Those pans are a very good price. I paid about $105 per side.
You might also need some of the other structure pieces, but they are mostly flat plate with simple bends.

My parts which cost about a grand including shipping and Danish taxes:

and installed, notice the seams near the prop shaft tunnel:

 

[Rut]

Donn,
You and I needed the same parts, but VB comes out to $458 and Moss at $610. If I use the Ebay pans VB drops by $60 and Moss by $180 on the single piece pan. I'm assuming that the quality would be?
Thanks, Rut

 

[Rut]

When cutting out the floor pans, how far do you go to the center? As you can see I've drilled out a good bit, but have a lot left to do. What's the best way to cut out around the sills and under the spring plates?
Thanks, Rut

 

[Trevor Jessie]

To do it properly, the spring plates must be removed. They are spot welded and also tacked on the edges.

 

[racingenglishcars]

I replaced the entire spring box, side to side. It was purchased as a single, assembled component. (£163 at frogeyespares.co.uk)

For the center tunnel, I didn't drill out the spot welds. I cut along side the existing tunnel seam and plug welded the new floor to the bottom of the seam. It made a small section with 3-thickness plate, but the alternative was to try to make a section that bridged the gap between the new floor pans. They aren't wide enough and don't meet in the middle.

Important: Weld in the ground cable hole before welding on the floor pan.

 

[racingenglishcars]

When cutting out the floor pans, how far do you go to the center? As you can see I've drilled out a good bit, but have a lot left to do. What's the best way to cut out around the sills and under the spring plates?
Thanks, Rut

I think in your case, you can place the new pan on the bottom of the tunnel and plug weld from the top. I left the seam intact, drilled holes in the floor plate and plug welded from the bottom. Makes no difference either way. But notice I trimmed the floor pans to overlap about 1/2 inch only along the welded area.

 

[sqbsprite]

Replacing floors is a big job. It is important to keep the body from flexing while you cut away the old metal I always welded in some temporary cross braces made from angle iron to reinforce it. Definitely use mig and not a torch. you will warp the panels with a torch. If you go back with the original seams and spot welds, it will look factory and be strong. I think you have to buy the seat mounting strips separate or skin the old ones off the existing floor. If you have never done panel replacement and mig welding, it is probably not a good area to learn on. This is a case where it would be wise to seek help from someone who has done it. It is important to get everything overlapped and put together properly especially around the rear bulk head. That is the area that takes a lot of load from the springs and things can start flexing if not done properly.

Donn's is a perfect example of how to do it, but if you still have the front and rear halves connected with the tunnel, you have to watch out for keeping the door openings correct.

 

[jlaird]

Man, what a labor of love.