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TR2/3/3A body panel fitting

sp53

Yoda
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I stopped working on the cylinder head because I need to learn more and moved to working on the body for summer. The frame is up on sawhorses with the floors and front clip bolted place. I bolted the inner sills with the floor to the frame and then bolted the front clip with the help of some 90 angle iron to the inner sill and floor. This let me hang the doors and check their fit plus see where the front clip needs to welded to the floor. I marked the inner sill with a scribe to see where the A post fits to the inner sill, and I think I am close enough to weld it once I take the panels apart and clean them .

The last time I rebuilt a body I fought the doors. Hopefully this methodology works better by fitting the A post and doors and then bring the B post to the door.

These words probably make no sense. But I thought I would share my choices. Anyways, I am out in the barn with my 8 inch mud hog grinding the paint off. The dust is killing me and I needed a break. Anyone have any ideas on a quality respirator for grinding paint.

Steve
 

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You are likely to find that short of having the frame sitting on the axles and wheels there is still going to be a variance in how the doors fit to the B post even using the frame for a base/ template. That is my experience.

I stripped the paint off with the garage doors open and a fan sucking the air out. Plus using a N95 mask. Which did little good. But I am still alive after doing 4 TRs over the last 25 years.
Charley
 
I prefer the 3m comfort mask with the vent valve.
On a tr3 it is critical that the door is fitted to perfection to both pillars and the rocker BEFORE any
welding is done.I always go from the B pillar forward as height and distance of the A is easy to set up.
Clamp & screw things into place and Make 100% sure that the gaps are 4 or 5 mm all around. There is
zero adjustments to the door later, so dont rush this.
Knowing that all of the replacement panels require hand fitting is helpful when it comes time to
add or subtract a bit of metal. Its not a problem, it is standard op.
Mad dog
 

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Thanks guys for input, so you used paint remover Charly? Hey Mad dog is that link the mask you mean.


Steve
 
Thanks guys for input, so you used paint remover Charly? Hey Mad dog is that link the mask you mean.


Steve
I used a combination of 4&1/2" grinder with various stripper heads and air tools . Grinding all the way. Tried a little chemical stripper and did not like the process or results.
Charley
 
No it is found at Lowes and has a valve to exhaust breath for coolness. 10 in a box for 25$
As you can see(sort of) in my picture the tender outer sheet metal was NOT blasted clean.
The process was to etch the raw steel immediately, upon return from the blaster, with an acid
washprimer.This prevents flash rusting for weeks,in which time the tender bits were stripped
with chemicals or sanded off.
On the day all was ready, back to the booth for sealing ,caulking and spraying body color.
Mad dog
 

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hey Mad Dog, after you use the acid wash on the primmer did it turn the metal a white kinda chalky color?
Steve
 
No it is a coating sold by Sikkens. Leaves the surface a thin yellow.At one time it was chromate based,
which is now banned. But the product is very versatile and gives the primer an excellent base.
Mad dog
 
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