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BN7 door latch adjustment

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TimK

TimK

Jedi Knight
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For 27 years, my driver's door has been loose by 1/8" to 1/4". It is not apparent to me how to adjust the latch -- on the door? or on the pillar? Before I go start randomly taking things apart, could someone please give me a clue?
 
On my 100-6 my passenger door would shut loosely and my driver's door too tightly. I found two metal plates or shims on the driver's side behind the shut face panel and the latch, so I removed one of them, and the door worked perfectly. Feeling pretty good about that success, I removed the shut face panel on the passenger side, and discovered no shims. So of course I put the one I had taken off the driver's side and put it on the passenger side, and the door shut quite nicely. Don't know if this is your problem, but it's worth a try. See if there are any metal plates behind the shut face panel.

Good luck,
Larry :smile:
 
Thanks for your comments, Larry, what I am looking for is information on whether the chrome latch (the piece with a hole in it that the door latch catches)can be moved inboard to make the door pull up tighter. Or is there an adjustment mechanism in the door that allows the latch to slide outboard to again pull the door tighter? Your example sounds like the shut face piece is moving with shims back or forward (in relation to the front of the car or back of the car) rather than inboard or outboard (side to side). Am I understanding you correctly? My problem is inboard outboard.
 
Well Tim, I really do mot know that much about your model car. However, generally when the door has inboard outboard play it can be traced to:

1] Incorrect or worn draught excluder

2] Excessively worn parts in the latch assembly

3] improper adjustment of the Striker mounted on ---------the "Pillar"
The striker #3 is adjustable such that it can be slid inboard or outboard as required.--Fwiw-- Keoke
 
Thanks, Keoke. So I will take off the striker (four screws) and see what it looks like underneath.
 
Yep, on mine it was backward or forward to cure the door setting tight when shut. Sounds like Keoke is on the right track for your issue - Good luck!

Larry
 
I took off the striker plate and found that I was at the limit of adjustment. There is a plate behind the door pillar that the striker screws into. There are 4 diagonal slots that provide some adjustment inboard and outboard. Mine seems to be at the limit of inboard adjustment, so I may have to grind some more slots all the way through the door pillar. This seems somewhat drastic so maybe I'll continue to live with it the way it is. If there are any other suggestions out there, I'd appreciate hearing them.
 
Remember there are two catch point on the striker. One notch and one hole. When the door is fully closed the pin should be in the hole. Your striker may already be too for inward to allow the pin in the hole and it is only holding onto the notch. Use what ever means needed to be sure the pin is in the hole at fully closed position. If it is not then adjust your stiker outward. The shims spoken of in previous post do help in the fine tuning of the latch so dont discount them as a means to get this adjustment.

I hope this helps Good luck
Kevin
 
Thanks, Kevin. I did make sure the latch is getting to past the first catch/notch and is reaching the hole. I may fiddle some more, but will avoid surgery (thanks Nevets).
 
The inboard/outboard adjustment can also be changed by cheating and adding flat washers between the inner door casing and the latch mounting plate inside the door. It causes the latching pin mechanism to move deeper into the door, bringing the door inboard to match the fender surface.
That has sometimes been the only way to bring all the components into perfect alignment without having to resort to carving away the striker and striker mounting holes in the alloy trim plates and door shut posts.
 
That's a great idea, thanks Rich.
 
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