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When I installed the windshield on my BN2 there was a gap of approximately .160 inch between each stanchion and the body. I shimmed the gaps with washers(very difficult). Could I be missing parts such as factory shims or must each windshield be custom fitted. The windshield was not installed when I acquired the car, so I don't know what filled the gap before it was removed.
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BN2 WINDSHIELD FIT
- Thread starter jayarbee
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[ QUOTE ]
When I installed the windshield on my BN2 there was a gap of approximately .160 inch between each stanchion and the body. I shimmed the gaps with washers(very difficult). Could I be missing parts such as factory shims or must each windshield be custom fitted.
[/ QUOTE ]
The lower chromed part (stanchion) was originally fitted to its mating windshield post & the two parts match numbered. Additionally there was a lot of hand fitting on these cars. So yes, they were custom fitted.
The stanchion is secured to the outer dash with three bolts. The lower two go from outside in & the upper from the inside to the outside threaded hole in the stanchion. The dash holes are sometimes oversized or slotted as needed to get the proper rake on the windshield. The bottom of the stanchion should fit tightly (in the horizontal plane) to the shroud/fender junction. The fender beading starts just ahead of the front of the stanchion foot. Additionally, the posts must end up with the correct horizontal spacing to fit the windshield width.
I'm not sure what you mean by "gap between stanchion & body & shimmed the gaps with washers". Can you be more specific? Sorry i'm so dense. If you mean a horizontal gap between the stanchion bottom & the fender/shroud junction, you may have to slot the outer dash holes vertically to allow the stanchion to go lower. If this gap is tapered (foot at the wrong angle to the shroud) you may also have to adjust slotting for correct angle. Washers between the stanchion & dash may be needed to adjust horizontal distance/angle in the side to side plane.
You can get a little more working room by removing the door check pivot screw. Just don't open the door so wide that it mashes the fender. Also, the front "Furflex" is supposed to be clamped between the stanchion & dash & extend to the bottom of the door opening. There is a matching piece that clamps between door panel & door.
Hang in there, it will work out. Just don't try to force fit anything & put a strain on the glass.
Let me know where the subject gap is.
D
When I installed the windshield on my BN2 there was a gap of approximately .160 inch between each stanchion and the body. I shimmed the gaps with washers(very difficult). Could I be missing parts such as factory shims or must each windshield be custom fitted.
[/ QUOTE ]
The lower chromed part (stanchion) was originally fitted to its mating windshield post & the two parts match numbered. Additionally there was a lot of hand fitting on these cars. So yes, they were custom fitted.
The stanchion is secured to the outer dash with three bolts. The lower two go from outside in & the upper from the inside to the outside threaded hole in the stanchion. The dash holes are sometimes oversized or slotted as needed to get the proper rake on the windshield. The bottom of the stanchion should fit tightly (in the horizontal plane) to the shroud/fender junction. The fender beading starts just ahead of the front of the stanchion foot. Additionally, the posts must end up with the correct horizontal spacing to fit the windshield width.
I'm not sure what you mean by "gap between stanchion & body & shimmed the gaps with washers". Can you be more specific? Sorry i'm so dense. If you mean a horizontal gap between the stanchion bottom & the fender/shroud junction, you may have to slot the outer dash holes vertically to allow the stanchion to go lower. If this gap is tapered (foot at the wrong angle to the shroud) you may also have to adjust slotting for correct angle. Washers between the stanchion & dash may be needed to adjust horizontal distance/angle in the side to side plane.
You can get a little more working room by removing the door check pivot screw. Just don't open the door so wide that it mashes the fender. Also, the front "Furflex" is supposed to be clamped between the stanchion & dash & extend to the bottom of the door opening. There is a matching piece that clamps between door panel & door.
Hang in there, it will work out. Just don't try to force fit anything & put a strain on the glass.
Let me know where the subject gap is.
D
The 'gap' I am talking about is in the vertical plane, where the inside surface of the stanchions are parallel to the dash outside surface. I know that the spacing must match the windshield so the positioning pins will match the holes in the stanchion--so the windshield width is the determining dimension because it is dependent on the window frame length. Since I did not dismantle the window stanchions I was not aware of the 'furflex'--thanks. So, it looks as if I must use some kind of shims plus the furlex to create the correct horizontal spacing to match the windshield and shim as necessary top-to-bottom to get the correct angle to keep the stanchions parallel to the windshield posts. Does that sound correct?
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Yup - youv'e got it.
D
D