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TR2/3/3A Blown head gasket Blues....probably time for a rebuild?

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K

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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I had decided the last time I posted to try and get the car back on the road for one more summer before doing a re build. I thought that I did not torque the head correctly the first time I replaced the head gasket so I bought another head gasket and decided to try again as compression was good and the leak seemed to be coming from under the manifold area and no coolant in the pistons or in the oil. I checked the head with a straight edge and it looked OK.................so I installed the 2nd head gasket. Motor ran for a minute OK then billowing clouds of white steam. I'm assuming the head is warped. (Yah I know I should have taken it to a machine shop to get the head flattened). So I pulled the head again and this time there was coolant in the cylinders and some near the lifters (saw that the lifters are worn and need replacing). The odd thing is the new oil I had put in still looks good on the dipstick and there is no chocolate milk there? Drained the coolant and only a little less than a gallon came out so the rest of the coolant must have steamed off? So I am thinking of taking the head to the machine shop to see if it is still repairable and see if i need new valves and replace the guides and lifters. Question is have I done irreparable damage to the rest of the motor? I have replaced basically all the mechanical parts on the TR3 over a 20 year period but have never taken the engine apart besides head removal. Any advice on where to go from here? :unsure:
 
What you are suggesting is the easiest fix, but not necessarily the best in the long term.
The "lifters" you mentioned...do you have the correct terminology, or did you mean rocker arms?
 
Very well could be a worn cam too. You also need to have a machinist check block flatness. The cracks around the studs at back of your block --- just say if it were mine I would replace it. you've just had enuf grief with this engine. and Malbaby, in America we have solid, hydraulic, roller, etc lifters. What are these tappets you foreign folk speak of?
Bob
 
CJD said:
Sorry, Karl. At least you tried as much as you could to get her going.
Click to expand...
I'm still going to get the cylinder head done and block checked for flatness. Might have it ready for Fall which is the best time to drive a TR3 :smile:PS. Is a special tool required to remove and install valve guides? Karl
 
I would have to say "yes". It is just a simple driver with a pilot that goes into the guide while you hammer or press it in/out. I have made the tool by taking an old valve and cutting the tulip off the end. I then weld a tube onto it to drive the top of the guide. The pilot keeps you from mushrooming the end of the guide as you press/hammer. It helps to freeze the new guides right before installation, because they are very tight in the head.
 
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try this head gasket when you put it back together
 
It seems like the head might be warped, causing coolant to leak into the cylinders. Taking it to a machine shop for repair is a good next step. Check the rest of the engine for damage and consider seeking advice from a mechanic or TR3 enthusiast group.
 
Karl sounds like you have had this car and engine for some time and put a lot of miles on it, so that is the cool part. The rebuild is probably overdue. I am sure people on the forum will help and provide quality information and I for one will enjoy following your work.

Steve
 
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