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Tips
Tips

Bleeding the clutch

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Hi Jim,

I bled mine over the summer, after having replaced the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder, the hose, push rod and dust cap.

Assuming everything in your case is in good shape and you only need to bleed, the method I was able to use was nothing more than a plastic tubing connected at one end, in this case, the bleed screw at the slave, and the other end of the tubing going all the way down into a glass jar on the floor (or lower than the discharging point from the slave cylinder) so that as you are pumping the pedal and the fluid is filling in the jar, there is no chance of air syphonage back into the tubing and subsequently, back into the clutch fluid line.

This method allows you to do it yourself.

It would help as did in my case to have the center hump removed so you can witness any bubbles still passing through the clear tubing. Also, loosen the bleed screw just enough to open at the slave to prevent air seepage back at the nipple. I remember once someone here mentioning the use of a rubber "O" ring around the bleed nipple, but I didn't do that and was still able to get away with an air tight seal. The "O" ring idea is an option to think about, though.

Also, as you do the pumping of the pedal, always make sure you have fluid topped off in your master [tank].

As I now recall, it really would be a good idea to have the hump removed because I was able to tighten the bleed nipple as I was pressing down on the clutch pedal. That assured no air seeping back at the nipple. A bit of dexterity required but not impossible. Have your correct tools handy.

That's one solution to bleeding the clutch.

Paul
 
I just did this 3 months ago. I dropped the slave cylinder down (two bolts)and had my wife push the pedal. In the future, I would remove the tranny cover as suggested above. Some one makes an extension attachment that once attached you never have to go through the difficult process again.
 
Personaly, I use a 3 foot small rubber hose with a inside diameter that fits over the nipple tightly, Then use a small hose clamp to tighten the hose to the nipple perminitly, I then attach the other end of the hose to a one man bleeder and submerge the one man bleeder in a jar of brake fluid, Then i get in the car and begin to pump the clutch! After i am satisfied the air is out of the line, I turn the long rubber hose clockwise to tighten the bleeder nipple most of the way closed, Then use a small wrench to firmly tighten the bleeder nipple all the way tight, When finished, I simply roll up the three foot hose in a neat coil and use a plastic tie to hold it up tight to the upper frame. So, whenever i need to bleed the clutch master cylinder again, I simpley cut the plastic tie and drop the one man bleeder that is attached to the 3 foot rubber hose into jar filled with brake fluid, Crack the bleeder lose, And Bob's your uncle!
 
Doug Reid aka mrfinespanner makes and sells this attachment. it works great, and is permanently attached to the slave. All you have to do to access it is lift your hood.
 
longbridgehealey said:
Doug Reid aka mrfinespanner makes and sells this attachment. it works great, and is permanently attached to the slave. All you have to do to access it is lift your hood.
Click to expand...
Doug can be very hard to get in touch with. I believe he sells his products to BCS and Toms Imports which may be a way of getting the tool faster.
 
It moves the valve to the end of the extension.

BTW when I replaced the transmission in my 100 with a Nissan 5-speed I had to redo the tunnel and extension panel so I built a little door into the right side of the panel which gives me good access to the cylinder.
 
Michael Oritt said:
BTW when I replaced the transmission in my 100 with a Nissan 5-speed I had to redo the tunnel and extension panel so I built a little door into the right side of the panel which gives me good access to the cylinder.
Click to expand...

Now that's a smart move! Wish I thought of that.
 
The bleeder is a line permanently installed that runs from the slave upward, and appears behind the distributor. You bleed from the top, rather than down at the slave.
 
Conceptually and without seeing what this bleeder device looks like as LBH describes (The mrfinespanner site could 'not be found' from my research), sounds to me the purpose of this, among others, is to allow air to rise rather than force down below the slave as one bleeds the clutch, if I'm reading this right. Or, is it the advantage to just be able to bleed without getting underneath the car? I would be interested as well to see how this apparatus takes shape and weighing the advantages or disadvantages of bleeding above vs. below the slave, if any.
 
I have one installed on my BJ8. It's just a pipe--same as the clutch line--from where the bleeder screw would be on a slave cylinder that goes up with a 90-deg bend to just above the starter. There is a bracket to brace it that is held in place by one of the bellhousing bolts (the one at about the one o'clock position as observed from the rear). At the end is a coupler to the pipe and the bleed screw. Essentially, it just remotes the bleed screw to the engine compartment, where it is more accessible.

I don't think there is any advantage with the extender over bleeding at the bleed screw with the slave cylinder in place (there's a reason why bleeder screws are always on the top of the cylinder). The advantage is when you need to bleed the clutch hydraulics; without other modifications--e.g. an access panel cut into the transmission cover--it is a) a real PITA done under the car, b) a real PITA if you have to remove the transmission cover (I've done it in a motel parking lot) and c) a snap with the extension.

Sometimes, you bleed and bleed brakes or clutch and everything seems fine, then 500 miles from home you realize the clutch pedal (or brakes, for that matter) feel spongy despite your best efforts. Brakes can be done easily enough, but the clutch is a bear.

Here's Doug's price list, I couldn't find any photos or diagrams:

Doug Reid (Mr. Finespanner) price list

If anyone is super interested, I'll shoot a photo and post it.
 
Guys

That Photo says to me that it can be produced as cheap as chips, although I have a BJ7 and therefore bleeding the clutch is easier than on a BJ8, I think that I will make one up.

Looks good

Thanks for the tip.

Bob
 
Yes, what that photo is showing is a nice solution.

Here's another thought...

I also see no problem with making a similar attachment, carefully mounting it in the vicinity of the undercarriage area instead of above in the engine compartment, as shown. Of course, mounting it in this area will require protecting it from possible road debris but not too high either, making it difficult to access.

Disadvantage to the above...You will still have to jack up the car enough to bleed...

Advantage...It will serve as more accessible than the present way the slave bleed setup is, obviously. Also, placing the bleed attachment below rather than above will remain out of view and better yet, will be one less obstacle to worry about when needing to service other parts in the area.
 
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