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Bleeding the clutch.

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jhorton3

jhorton3

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I bought a Mityvac hand unit last night to help bleed the clutch system. I'd like to try this tonight, and wanted to run the procedure by all of you. I fill the master cylinder with fluid, attach the Mityvac to the bleeder screw and pump a couple of times to create a vacuum. Then I crack open the bleeder screw and continue pumping, making sure I don't allow the fluid in the reservoir to run out. Continue until no bubbles coming through, close the bleeder screw and try the clutch pedal. Sound correct?
 
That's the way I do it. Although if I'm feeling lazy, I use the electric vacuum pump. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff
 
I even adapted one of those pressure sprayers that hooks to the air compressor, the soap pickup dispenser thingy pulls a pretty good vacumn. That was the only way I was able to get fluid up and over the hump and Bugsy's clutch bled properly. Knock on wood, haven't had to repeat the process for 5+ years now.
 
Has anyone ever experienced this? You hook up the vacuum pump to your brakes/clutch, pull the vacuum, loosen the bleeder valve, and air bubbles come streaming in through the threads of the valve (from the outside world) instead of pulling your brake fluid out? Before it was in pieces, the Midget was notorious for this and I would call my wife out to do some pedal pushing instead of the vacuum method.

Mark
 
All the time. Speedibleeders solve this problem I think.
 
what I do is have the vacuum pump on the valve. an my toe on the petal so that Im "U" shaped with my head in the passengers foot well and my legs in the drivers. it works but it is un comfortable.

steve
 
Kim, your typing looks/feels painful /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonono.gif , man!! I feel for you!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

Can you hunt and peck with one hand?
 
Kim you really need to learn to love TV for a few days! Glad that you are back but do be careful.
Bill
 
I have been watching TV, but other things just happen. For example, my wife drove me to the hospital in her car (the festiva)and it was fine. After the surgery on the way home it started making one heck of a noise like the lugs were loose. I had her pull over and use the wrench all the lugs were tight /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif We eased on home and now the wife is driving my kia sportage and her car just sits. I think I have figured it out though. I worked on the rear brakes just last week and I am thinking that the spindle nut has backed off. They say never to reuse them, but I did. I'm thinking that I did not punch it enough. Nothing I can do now though, but wait. Also my dad came up today to tell me that his subaru has got serious motor problems like a rod knocking or something. I went through that motor thoroughly when I rebuilt it only 3000 miles on it. Nothing I can do there right now either
 
As far as getting bubbles past the threads I use liguid teflon sealant on the threads of the bleeder screw its worked for me every time make sure your hose is a tight fit on the bleeder screw also hope this helps
 
I think you really need to just take a break, my friend. I'm sure all that stuff will wait for you.
 
Oh- and I just put grease on the bleeder threads to both prevent air leakage and to prevent rust.
Bill
 
Is your mity vac the metal or the plastic one? Reason I'm asking is I can't remember if the plastic one has the external point the same as the metal.

On the metal one, by the gauge you've got a nipple for outlet, or pressure. When you have the mityvac closed(the lever pushed one way or the other) where you can feel vacuum building when you have it capped, you will also feel pressure coming out of the outlet port.

I have done this numerous times, so I can offer it as good advice. You can use your mity vac as a pressure bleeder. It works on clutch systems because they do not have the residual valve found in some brake master cylinders.
Fill up the plastic catch bottle with clean brakefluid, hose it to the bleed nipple(after you've put a light coating of teflon thread sealant around the threads), with the master cylinder dry and the bleed valve open you can pump the fluid through the slave up the line into the clutch master. When you see fluid starting to build in the master the system is bled, just tighten the bleed valve(making sure the clutch slave rod is in normal position,i.e. not depressed back into the cylinder) top up the master and you should be good to go.
i.e. hook the filled plastic bottle up one hose to the bleed nipple, the other to the outlet port of the mityvac. open the bleed valve and pump it into the slave up to the master.
 
Midgie can now move on her own power! YIPPEE! My Mityvac is the plastic type, but it has both ports on it. I connected the brake bleeding reservoir to the vacuum port. After wrapping the threads with teflon tape on the bleeder screw I put the hose on the bleeder screw and pumped to about 20-25 on the gauge. I've got one of those ratchet wrenches so I was able to work the bleeder open and shut with that. When I started feeling pedal resistance I had my wife push the pedal while I was under the car checking if the clutch fork moved. I'd say it does about 1/2-3/4" give or take.

When I pushed the pedal I felt resistance but the pedal hits the floor. After filling the transmission (20w/50) I cranked Midgie up and allowed her to warm up a bit. Pushing the pedal to the floor I smacked the gear lever into reverse with a little grinding. I let off the pedal about 1/2" or so and she moved!

I put the lever to 1st gear with no grinding and she moved forward. I tried this about three times reverse then 1st with no grinding. It feel a bit odd though. I was expecting more resistance to the pedal, and not have it go all the way to the floor. Since I only have the hand brake to stop me I didn't want to go too far or goose the gas too much.

How much resistance should I feel in the pedal when it engages or disengages, and how much travel should I expect in the pedal and clutch fork assembly?
 
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