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BJ8 Stalling Problems resolved [maybe??]

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pkmh

pkmh

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Today, is the first day in months I have taken the Healey out on the road.

This past October was the last time the car saw the road (and subsequently "towed" back into the garage), resulting from stalling issues I have been having.

There were quite a few things I've done prior to October to resolve my dilemna and since October, the fuel system was totally revamped or replaced all the way to the Carbs (which I rebuilt months prior). Other non-related issues were also resolved (ie: rebleeding brakes).

A new fuel tank, rear fuel filter, sending unit and SU fuel pump were installed. The present fuel line was blown out and all existing electrical connections for the pump, etc., were refurbished.

Added Note: Even though I did rebuild the Carbs, one of things I received as part of a Christmas present was a Moss Motor's DVD on how to rebuild your SU's. I haven't finished watching it but from what I've seen, it is really great knowledge to have. I will need to go back and do a few things again, given the tips shown. I highly recommend it if one has any doubts on rebuilding their SU's.

I will now drive it back to my storage place. I hope I will not be back here on the forum to discuss further woes about this issue.

If successful, I have received many explanations as to the possible causes for my stalling. All were very valid and in fact, I do keep records in my journel. And I wish I could give proper thanks to those who nailed it by mentioning the tank, pump, etc. (assuming that is the culprit). But thanks for all the great advice, thus far!

Paul

Drove it around before driving it back and the car is behaving quite nicely, so far. No issues so I am feeling very optimistic. And I am not sure if driving the car in 45 degree weather is more of a challenge for her than in warmer weather, but so far, so good.
 
You may want to but some "Sta-bil" in the gas. Ethanol can break down to water in a few weeks. that will make starting harder if the car is not driven over the winter.
 
Good advice Tahoe.

About hard starts with the car, the other thing I did a few days ago was to readjust both choke cables so there was virtually no slack when applying (or disengaging) the choke. That has certainly helped my car to start without any problem.

As far as the fuel system goes, when I revamped the fuel system during the fall season into winter, it was completely dry until the end of December, or until after I installed the sending unit, the last thing I needed to do to say I was finished with the fuel system.

Then, I added about a half a tank of fresh gas and then filled it up about two weeks ago. This was done after given the advice to do so in order to prevent condensation build up in the tank.

The only issue I seem to have is how I noticed the gas gauge needle fluctuating quite a bit while driving, so there must be something going on with the sending unit. It also doesn't read as full when the tank is, in fact, full of gas. I learned this when attempting to fill up at the pump only to discover the pump would shut off. So I need to go back and inspect or the very least, adjust the float to the proper height.

Maybe this should fall under another new topic, and that is, I would be curios to know if the gauge needle does have a tendency to swing erratically on these cars. Or maybe there is something that was suppose to have been installed as part of either the fuel tank or around the sending unit.

Any other thoughts to add to this?

Thanks.
 
pkmh said:
... Maybe this should fall under another new topic, and that is, I would be curios to know if the gauge needle does have a tendency to swing erratically on these cars...
Click to expand...

The gauge on my BJ8 does and, IIRC, the one in our BN2 does too. I think it's common; some have tried various 'fixes' like voltage regulators and dampers, but I just live with it.

One tip I was given once is to push the gas pedal to the floor--engine not running, of course--before pulling on the choke knob. This way you're not fighting the throttle return springs as well as the choke mechanism. At the least, it seems to make it easier to pull the choke and you may get a bit more travel on the choke lines (possibly giving a bit more enrichment).
 
Bob, Someone made the same suggestion about a year ago (maybe you?) to depress the gas pedal before pulling out the choke and I have used that tip ever since. It does seem to make a big difference in the ease of pulling the choke knob and the starting of the car. Such a simple procedure but I would have never heard of it if it hadn't been for this forum.

Thank you again for all who contribute.
 
I'll try this idea of pressing the gas pedal before pulling on the choke (before starting, of course). I usually do this step before starting or pump the pedal a couple of times, then pull out the choke.

When I mentioned about adjusting the choke cables, I had to decrease their lengths for there was too much slack even after the choke was pulled out.

I marked off each cable's present position at each carb and another mark I felt where the cable should be shortened to. Luckily, the revised adjustment worked out perfectly, giving just enough slack or clearance when the choke is in the closed position.

Unless I'm wrong, making such cable adjustments at the carbs on this car is no easy task. Although I have found a trick in removing and more importantly, reinserting the springs for the carb pick up levers by using a simple wire (or that which is known as part of the Housing Assembly for a BJ8). If anyone's interested, I can post a sketch for info or further comment (again, maybe this should fall under a different topic??).

Thanks,

Paul
 
Pumping the gas pedal does nothing with an electric fuel pump. Be sure you do not depress the clutch when starting. Check for sharp curves in the choke cable. Remember, it is two stages of pulling the choke.
 
Hey Tahoe,

Not that I ever did, but curious to know what happens if depressing the clutch when starting?
 
I believe it makes the starter work harder and slower. Not sure of the dynamics but it has come up on this forum and others over he years. It seems to me that it would be the opposite that is true.
 
pkmh said:
Hey Tahoe,

Not that I ever did, but curious to know what happens if depressing the clutch when starting?
Click to expand...

The crankshaft is pushed forward against the thrust washers. Better to start in neutral with clutch out.

Next time you're in your (running) car, at a stop push the clutch in; usually, the RPMs will drop.
 
Turn ignition "on", pump the pedal a few times while systematically pulling out the choke(this puts some more fuel in the carbs), and yell "CLEAR" and then hit the starter button.
 
If you think about it, pumping the pedal doesn't do anything except flop the butterfly valves open and shut. Pumping the pedal only makes a difference with carbs that have accelerator pumps, like American carbs.

If you want to try to ge extra fuel into the carbs, you can try pulling the choke back and forth several times. That "might" cause the needles to go up and down and "slash" some fuel into the throats. Maybe a whole drop if you're lucky.
 
Hi Guys, Regarding easier cranking with your foot off the clutch: When you depress the clutch pedal, the carbon throw out (release) bearing is up against the pressure plate. This resistance is not apparent once the pressure plate is moving in shifting, but is significant when trying to start from rest. Hope this helps. Bob
 
:iagree: I have to agree with John, pumping the gas pedal does nothing to a SU carb because there is no pump!

By depressing the pedal you're overcoming the spring tension exerted by the throttle springs. Now the choke should operate freely, unless you've added additional choke return springs, which I've seen on some cars. The friction from the accelerator screw against the choke lever is minimal. Try loosening all screws holding the choke cable at the carbs and have someone in the car "slowly" pull out the choke. If it's much easier then your problem isn't in the cables. If it's still too hard you have a binding choke cable somewhere. On my car it was in the cable under the dash to the choke lever.

Good luck, let us know what you find.
 
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