BJ8 replacement front Lever Shocks keeps leaking

[AUSMHLY]

Is my car doing something that is making the shocks leak? Or do I have incredibly bad luck.

Here's the time line.

5.10.10 bought left and right remanufactured lever shocks from World Wide Auto Parts.
8.26.10 right shock leaks. Replacement sent and installed.
2.24.11 right shock leaks. Replacement sent and installed.
6.18.12 right shock leaks.

When installed, all shocks were bolted down tight and travel was smooth. Checked the right shock today, 6.18.12 all four bolts are tight, travel is smooth.

What should I look into?
Why is this happening to the right side only?

The leak is coming from the left side of the shock, where it rotates.

 

[HealeyRick]

Roger,

I'm afraid I don't have a clue, but I'd suggest calling Peter at World Wide to see if he's seen anything like it before.

 

[Keoke]

HI Roger. No You have a defective unit. Send it back to the vendor.--Keoke

 

[tahoe healey]

(1) Your calender is defective. Today is the 17th.
(2) You clean too much and the dirt holds the oil in.
(3) I agree with Keoke. They use rebuilt parts and it is easy for them to have wear. I had one form them that they replaced because the mounting holes were out of round and "clunked" on rough ground.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Well guys, I guess it's sort of good news, that it's not my car causing the problem.

On the other hand, anyone else out here with as bad of luck as I'm having. How's that saying go, if it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all. 4 rebuilt shocks from them in two years... once I get the next replacement.

 

[John Turney]

...
(2) You clean too much and the dirt holds the oil in.
...

I agree!

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I've had a couple of leakers from Worldwide, too. They did make good on the 'guarantee,' though. WW puts in seals where there were none originally but, like a lot of seals, the result seems to be hit-or-miss. My experience is about one in four leak, sounds like you just beat the odds (in the wrong way).

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I just sent a left rear BJ8 shock to WW for rebuilding (this shock was given to me a few years back). This will be the fourth rebuild--on three cores--trying to get a non-leaker.

 

[57_BN4]

Given the low price that the reconditioners are charging I'd expect a few duds, it takes a long time to do them properly and that isn't even considering reclaiming the piston bores with s/s ground-bore tube and replacing worn fulcrum pins with hardened oversize ones. I'd expect a properly reconditioned shock (all wearing surfaces as good or better than new) to sell for at least $500...

A secondary issue is that the modern seals the reconditioners fit are really intended to work on rotating shafts as they build up a small film of oil on the sealing lip to lubricate them. The jiggling motion of the damper tends to induce leakage. In saying that, there really aren't many options for seals.

I did some thinking on this problem when reconditioning my shocks and installed plastic bushings as opposed to brass because plastic has better wear characteristics as well as not requiring lubrication. The brass ones wear quickly which assists the seal leakage. I bored out the housings and fitted two lip seals on each side with grease packed between them and also polished the shafts with 1500 grit. Time will tell if this is the right approach I guess.

Andy.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

WW's description of their rebuild process:

"Rebuild Process Briefly, we tumble clean, glass bead blast, and ultrasonically clean the entire shock and components. Everything is inspected for damage. The body is machined to enable installation of sleeve bearings (as there is no bearing originally) and for a radial lipped oil seal (where originally was a thick packing washer). The shaft is reclaimed with a custom made stainless sleeve. Pistons and valves are restored. The shock is reassembled with new hardware, filled, bled, tested, and painted with black enamel. The product you receive from us is in many ways better than when new."


Sounds like they make a yeoman's effort, anyway.

 

[Jeepster]

Maybe its time to try a different supplier?

 

[Jerry]

I know it is not original, but the tube shocks I installed were the best improvement to the ride that I have every done!

a happy customer

Jerry
BJ8

 

[RAC68]

Roger,

I appreciate your frustration as I also have experienced a similar situation with the failure of multiple remanufactured alternators. I have heard World Wide is a reputable vendor and I do not think a 25% yield on remanufacturing would sustain them in business for long.

Although, I too, suspect the fault to be in the remanufacturing of the shock, I suggest you check to make sure your shock mounting plate is absolutely perpendicular to the king pin and there is no misalignment stress placed on the left shock fulcrum during installation. I don’t expect you will find anything as I would imagine the stress would have to be substantial and noticeable, however, it’s the only thing I could think of to cause a leak on one side of so many replacements.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[RAC68]

Roger,

It seems funny that you had 4 shocks that failed in exactly the same way …. Are you sure all 4 were not the same shock. If they checked the returned shock and could not find anything, they may have just sent back the same unit.

Just a thought,

Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[57_BN4]

A minor point worth considering is that the LH shock is near the exhaust so will heat cycle more than the RH. The shocks are a closed space so the pressure must rise and fall inside with temperature. Try maybe putting the fill point plug in with a regular washer that has a small slot cut in it so there is a breathing space and run it for a few weeks. Just a thought.

I'm dealing with an issue at work where a differential is heating up so much that it is bursting its vent bellows. The bellows is there to seal up the diff but allow some expansion and contraction and for a relatively small housing it is amazing how much expansion is going on.

Andy.

 

[coj]

I had two rear shocks replaced last fall in a BT 7. They were done by a restoration shop. Within a few months they started leaking. The shop returned them on a warrenty claim, and the new units seem to be OK. I do not know where the shocks came from but will check. Also had a problem with new front brake discs, they needed to be re cut!!! These rebuilt units need to be checked out ASAP.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Roger, It seems funny that you had 4 shocks that failed in exactly the same way …. Are you sure all 4 were not the same shock. If they checked the returned shock and could not find anything, they may have just sent back the same unit. Just a thought. Ray (64BJ8P1)

Ray, seems odd to me that all four are the right front too. Can't say for sure they are not the same shock, but it seems unlikely. They send me a shock, I send mine back in their box. So that time it's not. However, maybe the one I sent them get's rebuilt and I get it back the next time. Doubt it being they rebuild a lot of shocks on an exchange service. Maybe I should punch a reference in the shocks I get... "AUSMHLY" Then the next round I'll know. Look, I got my shock back!

 

[AUSMHLY]

The 5th shock which was installed on 06.26.12, is now leaking... 09.17.12.

Called World Wide Auto Parts and talked to Peter. He sent me another one.
I installed it last night.

Here's some photos showing the seal on the left side of the shock is coming out (all shocks leaked on the left side of the shock, passenger side of the car).

Last month, I got together with a british mechanic and we took the spring off the passenger side, to make sure the front shock was traveling up and down correctly and not binding. Travel was good. We looked at the mounting plate and it looked fine. It appears not to have been in any accidents, looks factory. Everything looks lined up correctly and no resistance in travel. All four mounting bolts were snug.

Thoughts?

 

[Frameman]

Are you sure you are getting a different shock back? I would suggest marking your shock before sending it in to ensure you are getting a different shock.
Marty

 

[Deleted member 8987]

So, why is the seal popped completely out? Is there pressure buildup that the original packing could handle, but not a tight seal? Seals don't just come out...unless they don't have a good outer edge. Those look like rubber on the outside, and anytime I ever had seals pop out on other applications, they were rubber outers.

Suggestion.

Find a flatwasher that clears the shaft, and is the size of the bore, see if it will fit in against the seal enough so you can stake it into the bore and hold that seal in place.
Dave