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BJ8 purchase

beaglbut

Freshman Member
Offline
I'm going to look at(and most likely buy) a 1967 BJ8 this Saturday. I'm very familiar with MGB's & Midgets, but do not know much about 3000's. I have read as much as I could find, car has not been on the road in about 15 years, and I know it is rusty(not sure how rusty) but is all there and not molested. Price is excellent-mechani friend has had in barn for 15 years and it is clean out time. Any help on what to look for and what to avoid?
 
If the car has not been on the road in 15 years and is rusty all I can say is proceed with caution!
The price might be excellent but these cars are very expensive to restore properly,especially the body work.Not as much for engine work.
My advice is to go look at the car with a person knowledgeable in Healeys(if possible) and have them explain all the problems and costs of the fixes.
You can spend more in resto costs than you would to find a car you are happy with.
A few books like "Essential Austin-Healey" and "Austin-Healey Buyers Guide" should give the basics on where to look for specific well known rust spots on the car.
Good advice I got when I was looking is to buy the best car you can afford.
Hope that helps......

Cheers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 
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I know it is rusty(not sure how rusty) but is all there and not molested.

[/ QUOTE ]

It may be "all there" but the real question is how much of "all" is left.
 
It's exciting to purchase an LBC, and that's exactly the reason why it may not be advisable to make up your mind that you're "probably going to buy" the car before you inspect it. Don't let emotions get in the way of logic.

Don't buy the first car you see unless it meets all your criteria and budget. And, rust is the greatest enemy to a successful restoration. Body repair generally costs more than anything else, and ALL of these British cars attract rust like bees to honey.

I've made this mistake before and won't do it again. It can be very harmful to your wallet! Wait for the best possible example you can find, even if it takes a year. You won't regret the wait!
 
I can't add a lot to the above but do check frame and everywhere for rust. If the car had undercoating sometimes rust will not show but frame rails can have pins holes or be flaking internally. Another really great book is
Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide - Gary Anderson and Roger Moment. Well worth reading before buying and don't be embarrassed to carry the book with you for reference.
 
All Healey's have rust. Don't be afraid to tackle the job. There great cars to own, and drive. Plus you have all the knowledge right here. For buying parts, wait for sales then buy only what you need to complete the step your working on at the present time. The cars dissassemble easy, I did mine in a week. Have plenty of storage available, and plenty of large bags to keep parts in. Label everything, and take lots of pictures. You'll need them. Good Luck
 
I'm in the middle of a 70 B/GT right now, I can weld & have made my own inner panels for the B. Is the 3000 that much harder ( I know parts are more expensive) technically than B or how it all goes together. I appreciate all the input, and as far as price, it is below 1K.
 
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as far as price, it is below 1K.

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No reason (honest /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif) but can you give me the exact location of the car and a contact person? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
i know nothing about restoring cars but, for less than a grand, it seems like a pretty low risk decision to me.



[ QUOTE ]
I'm in the middle of a 70 B/GT right now, I can weld & have made my own inner panels for the B. Is the 3000 that much harder ( I know parts are more expensive) technically than B or how it all goes together. I appreciate all the input, and as far as price, it is below 1K.

[/ QUOTE ]
 
At less than a grand, I am interested also! Where is it, again?

Seriously, the old adage of "if its too good to be true it probably is" is well worth keeping close to your heart on this one....BUT...sometimes you do fall into a good deal and you need to know when to jump. I may be wrong but if it is not with a little poking an obvious rust-bucket, it could be worth doing! One thing to keep in mind, though, from my point of view is to be sure to keep your goals in mind. Are you interested in fixing it up to be a good, presentable "driver" vehicle, or a gold concourse? Or somewhere in between. The costs go up dramatically if you are interested in making it a really pristine example of the mark. However, if you can see yourself using "used" parts, etc. for some of the "restoration" it would be quite more economical. A true restoration to high standards is quite, quite expensive. I think you get my point. I sure hope she is worth the effort! Good luck!
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif To the young lister, who can weld A Big Healey is nowhere like a 70B/GT I have seen some that if they were given to you it would require that you mortgage your home town or rob the US mint to restore.-FWIW---Keoke
 
Went to see MKIII today at the barn. Looks like project at Dreamsonwheels.com with less visible rust (same color, but 67). Outer panels show some rust thru on lower edges, floor behind drivers seat open, mount for lf rear spring rusted away. Owner has had for 25 years, in dry storage for 15, will need full restoration. I will be posting pics on a site i'm setting up. I'm probably going to get it, but will be lurking mostly until I finish the MG and can start on this. The wife has laid down the law- only one non running car in the garage at a time. I was not able to get underneath, but I was able to feel the frame in several spots- flaky but no holes. Price is right and free storage until I'm ready to bring it home. Will be looking for all kinds of answers once started. Thanks in advance.
 
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