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BJ8, how to remove airfilters?

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N

NIB

Senior Member
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I bought a BJ8 a month ago, it seems to be running way to rich form the smell of fuel from the exhaust and also I dont need to use the choker at cold starts.

I read the manual at sucarb.co.uk about adjusting them. First i thought about checking if the airfilters are clean. Its the original style of filter you flush with fuel and re-oil. But how do you remove them. It seems like each have two nuts on each carb holding them in place. The nuts between the carbs i dont have any wrench that is small enough to reach them and there is also no room to turn the nuts.
Is there som smart way to remove them?

Niels
Denmark
 
Niels,
I found that it is easiest to remove the top of the float bowls (you can then check the float levels)to get to the inside nuts. If you don't already have the shop manual you should get one, it will be invaluable for your tune up and repair. Remember the BJ8 has HD8 carburetors. Good luck and have a good day!

John
 
Well NIB , you might as well bite the bullet and get a wrench that will fit the nuts and let you loosen them by turning them a limited bit at a time.

Once the nut is loosened you can use a small magnet tool in one hand and a probe in the other to completely remove the nut and washer, The magnet will grab them for you when the nut is fully backed off.
.
Replacement is similar to removal except the washer and nut are positioned by sliding them on a small rod which will position to be started on the bolt. Once started the probe will move the nut to the point where you will need the wrench again.---Fwiw-Keoke
 
Ugh ... this is not a fun job. The nuts should be 1/2 inch--some end wrench box ends will barely fit and some won't. You can get a cheap one and grind it down so that you can turn the nut about 1/16 turn--a couple sixteenths of a turn and the nut should be loose enough to spin off with your finger (use a magnetic grabber like Keoke suggested to capture the nut). I don't use any washers here and have never had any problems with the filters coming loose. Remove the rear filter first; IIRC correctly you can't get the front one off except by moving it rearward first.

Your filters would have to be pretty gunked-up to affect mixture very much--more likely your problem is elsewhere. SU carburettors adjust mixture based on airflow--if airflow is reduced then the mixture will be leaned proportionally. This is why SU carburettors are somewhat altitude-compensating. The 'choke' mechanism--SUs don't actually have chokes--will often stick on HD8s. Check this first.
 
Do not have a gun or other lethal weapon anywhere near when attempting to remove air cleaners---Hey after decades of dropping nut and washer, thanks for tip about using magnet
Jay '65 3000
 
why said:
Do not have a gun or other lethal weapon anywhere near when attempting to remove air cleaners---Hey after decades of dropping nut and washer, thanks for tip about using magnet
Jay '65 3000
Click to expand...

:lol: :yesnod:
 
I have removed the stock filters several times and never noticed them being that difficult. Now after reading this thread, the next time they come off I will probably be cussing in three different languages...thanks to Rosetta Stone.
 
Before you put a wrench on the first air cleaner nut....

- Stuff a rag down into the open hole portion of the frame that
is right under the carbs.
:yesnod:
That is where your wrench , a few nuts , and several assorted washers will be until you remove the carbs
and fish them all out with a long magnet... Unless you block that opening in the frame !

Why do I know this you ask ? :>)
:cryin:

Ed
 
I use a foam block that I leave in all the time. It sticks out only 1/4 inch in case I ever want to remove it. Painted close to body color and doesn't show.
 
Put a hoist in your garage ceiling and attach to a harness around your chest, after taking time to do this successfully it will be only way you can straighten up.
 
Ah, the Peter Pan approach to auto repair. Good thing about it is you don't scuff the paint with your Levi's. But sucks when you drop that wrench.
 
magic wand with magnet at end, I have obviously given this a lot of thought, the show stopper is "rail" system on ceiling to allow for infinite positioning because as we all know even if 99% of area covered, the next project will of course only be doable from that last 1%. One area of such lunacy that actually seems to matter is now have enough carpet scraps to lay around front and two sides, leaving an entry way at back (when pushed by hand--remove front for static timing roll). Even just to kneel down to move oil drip pans around or a quick visual check seems to be a bit less of a groan.
 
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