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BJ8 Driveshaft Installation

AUSMHLY

Yoda
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My original driveshaft needed to be rebuilt, but not all parts were available.

A local driveshaft company made me a replacement. The U-joints were not GKN/Hardy-Spicer but another brand, Spicer, that they recommended. The U-joints they used don't need to be greased.

There is still a zerk on the small yoke sleeve. Access is more of an issue now because it's not exactly like the original.

If I installed the driveshaft with the zerk near the rear end - easy straight shot to the zerk from under the car - would that be correct?
In other words, is it OK to install the drive shaft "backwards," zerk at the rear end and not at the transmission?
 
Hi AUSMHLY,
Your question presents an unusual situation. I would say it is not a good idea. My reasoning is because of the angle of the forces being applied to the splines. I haven’t looked at my Healey drive shaft in a while but I believe the zerk fitting your talking about is for the purpose to lube the sliding yoke at the transmission end. Those splines are to be an easy movement. I think the angle of force pushing the driveshaft every time the rear ended goes up and down is an easier angle at the long end of the driveshaft. If those splines are at the differential end the angle of push becomes much greater. I’m not a geometry wizard but those are my thoughts.
As an aside, in many cases those splines don’t get relubed very often after assembly so the amount of times you would need to struggle with it is minimal. Also to from my reading, u-joints without zerk fittings have a long life.
 
My 'gut' feeling, with absolutely no knowledge or experience, is to agree with Vette. Also, drive shafts should be balanced--the shop that rebuilt yours should have done this--but installing it backwards may affect this (again, with no science or data). But, it's not a terrible job to R&R a drive shaft so you could give it a try.
 
Recognizing Bob’s concurrence with my remarks, on a minor scale I might see a distinction from his last remark. If a test of the application were only a concern of R+R of the driveshaft, I believe the application could very well affect more than the driveshaft. The U-joints of the driveshaft would be the strongest links in my mind. I would be much more concerned with the additional thrust into the transmission and the pinion seal and bearing as well as the ring & pinion gears. Just my thoughts.
 
I agree with vette. Supporting him is the fact that I've never seen any car with the slip joint at the rear end, always at the tranny end, and figure the engineers must have had reasons why. What does the shop that built the shaft for you say about reversing it?
 
I agree with vette. Supporting him is the fact that I've never seen any car with the slip joint at the rear end, always at the tranny end, and figure the engineers must have had reasons why. What does the shop that built the shaft for you say about reversing it?
The shop did balance it.
The shops reply to my question was it shouldn't matter which way it's installed because it's balanced.

He of course isn't familiar with Healey's hence my question here. But he does know driveshafts.
I will reach out to him again, addressing if the angle has an effect on the spline wear.

As far as R/R the drive shaft, it's a pain. Remove the seats, consul, tunnel to get to the front bolts and the lock tabs. Jack the car up to get to the rear bolts.

Thanks guys.
 
With more than 40 years in the repair business, I can't recall any driveshafts with the slip yoke at the diff end of driveshaft. There probably are some, but none come to mind.
Why not use a 90 degree Zerk and face it to the rear, so you can access it from under car. It only needs attention infrequently.
Also, avoid the temptation to fill it till it oozes out. As soon as you see the slip yoke move slightly, stop.

For future reference, don't forget that David Nock at British Car Specialists in Stockton has a vast supply of used parts. You could have picked up a used shaft and had it rebuilt or possibly just acquired the item need to replace what was damaged on your driveshaft.

Finally, what driveshaft company did you use?
 
Driveline Service of San Leandro rebuilt and balanced the BJ-7s driveshaft some 20 years ago with excellent results. IIRC they used U-Joints I supplied but did some slip-joint work. Reliable outfit.
 
Here's an idea:
  • Determine where that zerk fitting is in relation, front/rear, to the tunnel. IIRC, you have a patch on top of the tunnel where there is no carpet under the armrest. Drill a hole in top of the tunnel large enough that you can insert your grease gun through the tunnel and reach the zerk fitting. Tape over the hole and install the armrest. When you need to grease the fitting, remove the armrest and tape, turn the driveshaft so the zerk fitting is on top and grease it. Replace the tape and armrest.
 
Here's an idea:
  • Determine where that zerk fitting is in relation, front/rear, to the tunnel. IIRC, you have a patch on top of the tunnel where there is no carpet under the armrest. Drill a hole in top of the tunnel large enough that you can insert your grease gun through the tunnel and reach the zerk fitting. Tape over the hole and install the armrest. When you need to grease the fitting, remove the armrest and tape, turn the driveshaft so the zerk fitting is on top and grease it. Replace the tape and armrest.
Brilliant !

I can cut a rectangular hole same size as the rubber plug used for both the tranny dipstick and the side hole for access to the zerk (which does not work with this driveshaft). Having the larger hole will allow a little wiggle room for the fitting and seeing it better.

Remove 2 armrest screws near the rear seats, pull up and out. Remove rubber plug, turn driveshaft to line up zerk, grease.

PS. I also used Driveline service in San Leandro.
 
Will the diameter of the driveshaft hit the cross brace of the frame if it was reversed? I'm thinking of when it's going down the road and the suspension is doing it's thing. Been a while since I've looked in there.
 
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