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Marvin Gruber
Yoda
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Vicky Brit has a solid walnut dash on sale now for $299. Any thoughts or comments. I want the dash to look correct.
Marv
Marv
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BJ8 dash board
- Thread starter Marvin Gruber
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Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Marv:
If the two halves of the dash are Book Marked and you can tell from the picture that you like the color and pattern I would say "GO"
There is wee bit of concern for warping in a solid wood piece over time.
A good furniture repair type can fit new skins to an original boad and you can pick the color you like.
I did mine but it is a bit of a chore but was worth it. I did my Daimler too and it is much more complicated
Healey Nut
Luke Skywalker
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I wouldnt use a solid wood dash in a car that is exposed to such big swings in temperature and humidity . Its going to warp .
I refinished both my BJ8 dashes by picking off the old laquer with a box cutter blade carefully working it on its side under the old laquer but without damaging the veneer which shattered everywhere . It took a long time and lots of patience .
I then stain varnished the wood until it wouldnt absorb any more stain which took several coats as the wood was so dry from age . Then are carefully filling and staining any faults in the veneer I bought some brush on laquer from the same maufacturer as the stain varnish .
Then I built up several heavy coats of laquer to get the deep laquer look .I even used masking tape around the edge of the panels to stop the brush on laquer running off . I actully made sure the panels were level and kinda floated the laquer onto them to get the heavy build up . Once that was acheived I wet sanded the surface to glassy smooth and then spray can coated the finish to bring the shine back . They look just like original and they are the original pieces however there is about 40hrs of work invested in each dash . But I know they are original not just ordered from a repro supplier and bolted on .
To me thats not restoration thats a lego set .
JMHO .
I refinished both my BJ8 dashes by picking off the old laquer with a box cutter blade carefully working it on its side under the old laquer but without damaging the veneer which shattered everywhere . It took a long time and lots of patience .
I then stain varnished the wood until it wouldnt absorb any more stain which took several coats as the wood was so dry from age . Then are carefully filling and staining any faults in the veneer I bought some brush on laquer from the same maufacturer as the stain varnish .
Then I built up several heavy coats of laquer to get the deep laquer look .I even used masking tape around the edge of the panels to stop the brush on laquer running off . I actully made sure the panels were level and kinda floated the laquer onto them to get the heavy build up . Once that was acheived I wet sanded the surface to glassy smooth and then spray can coated the finish to bring the shine back . They look just like original and they are the original pieces however there is about 40hrs of work invested in each dash . But I know they are original not just ordered from a repro supplier and bolted on .
To me thats not restoration thats a lego set .
JMHO .
OP
Marvin Gruber
Yoda
Offline
I've redone acouple of Triumph dashs that turned out pretty good but I did them a matt finish. I have two or three BJ8 dashs so I might try to refinish one. The VB sale had me thinking but as earilier mentioned, not to keen on a solid wood dash.
Marv
Marv
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I bought one a few years back to replace my very worn original one and you need to find out if the glove box hinges are included AND installed. I spent a lot of time mounting the glovebox door and drilling those hinge holes. One slip of the drill and it's a new dash! You can not use a standard drill unless you have a 90 degree attachment. If you can use the original glove box cardboard, do it, because a lot of time is spent making a new one fit!! You will also have to drill the backside with holes for mounting hardware & glovebox cardboard. I made plexiglass templates to do mine using the original dash as a guide and they worked really well.