BJ7 Side Window Alignment

[dougie]

How do I fix my driver's side window sealing problem? Passenger side aligns perfectly, but the driver's leaves room for a flood to enter. I tried bending the vent wind frame inwards, but then the window wouldn't raise and lower in the track. Also tried re-aligning the door without any luck. Any ideas welcome.
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You'll need to buy a German built vintage car if you're looking for a better fitting top or panels......

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

UPDATE
I managed to get my passenger side window finally adjusted properly so I have a good glass to weatherstripping seal.

I had the window frame assembly removed and laying on the bench when I noticed that the curvature of the window frame and the glass profile curve didn’t match. I put the frame assembly in a vice and gently pulled it in the direction that matched the window profile curve.

Before installing it again, I tried to slide the window in the U-shaped track. It was binding, but it was always binding in the past (my wife had a difficult time raising the window). I grabbed two pairs of pliers and used them to spread the U channel on the window frame assembly. Slowly but surely, the window became easier to slide in the U channel. When I worked my way up to the chrome area I couldn’t use anything that would mark up the chrome so I used brake spring pliers with some difficulty, but it worked. I looked for a “spreader tool” that I could insert into the U channel which is 1/2” opening, but I struck out there. I still want to find a tool that will do this for some more fine tuning! Anyone know of such a tool?

I installed the whole assembly and restarted my adjustments and the glass now fits against the weatherstripping with no gaps! The window is much easier to roll up/down now, but I need a few more fine tuning adjustments. A new window regulator was also installed to replace a much worn out one.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Congrats! Nicely done.

"I looked for a “spreader tool” that I could insert into the U channel which is 1/2” opening, but I struck out there. I still want to find a tool that will do this for some more fine tuning! Anyone know of such a tool?"

As you mentioned, a pair of pliers (ends wrapped with tape) is also what I used. Have you tired putting an extension on the plier handles (like PVC or metal tubing) for more leverage?

When I think I'm done, I'lI slide a socket in the channel top to bottom to confirm the gap is uniform. Good luck.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Installing the weatherstripping is next, right after I fix the passenger door handle. My wife pushes the interior handle forward, but the door doesn’t “release” until she bumps the door with her shoulder and she’s really tired of doing that. The inside mechanisms look okay and seem to work properly when the door is open.

 

[vette]

Sometimes that occurs because the door or latch is dragging.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

The passengers door latch is dragging/rubbing. Photos posted show the dragging marks on the tape. (Note: the round steel dowel was dragging on the door jamb a long time ago and I filed it down so that was fixed).

It appears that I will have to take a hammer and hit/tweak the dragging assembly on the door itself.

Thoughts anyone?

 

[vette]

I don’t believe I would hit the door latch with a hammer. The door has quite a bit of flex in it and is susceptible to bending. Instead of tape use chalk to mark and then highlight the areas of contact. When the chalk transfers to the other surface you can see exactly where contact is being made. Maybe too many or to little shims are present under the latch plate on the latch panel. Or same for the latch mechanism itself on the door. The door needs to close without any contact on the metal pieces until it actually engages the catch. The adjustment should be able to be effected by loosening the screws to move things around and/or adding or removing shims.
Not by hammering it. It’s precision adjustment not muscle. If you get to a state where it is so close but still a very slight drag and you just can’t get it any better then you can cheat a little by placing just a tecsh of lube/white grease on the spot where the chalk indicates erroneous contact.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Hello Patrick,
The Lock Assembly is held in place by 3 screws and not adjustable. Make sure it's screwed in tight. Hammering won't fix anything.
The Lock Plate is adjustable. Remove the lock plate and make sure there are no shims behind it. If so, remove, most likely problem solved. If no shims, look to see if any are under the 2 door hinges. Possibility the rear door is too close to the rear wing. If no shims and you can't move the door forward at all, then an extreme fix may be grinding the back of the lock plate to make it thinner.

As a side note, the steel dowel was once round. It can get flattened at the point of contact with the lock assembly latch. Remove the lock plate and you'll find on the back you can loosen the screw to the dowel, rotate the dowel so the round part is where it needs to be. Tighten the screw, good to go.

Once you figure out what the problem was, it's time to align the lock plate. It's adjustable, up/down right/left. To confirm it's in it's correct place, roll the window down so it doesn't come in contact with the rubber seal, hold the door handle button in so it doesn't latch and close the door. It should close easy with no resistance (except for the rubber seals around the side/bottom of the door. To confirm it's good, close the door. Did it close completely and the body line and door/wing line up? Good. Now gently push the handle button enough for the safety catch to stop the door from opening completely. Door should still be closed but not totally closed. Push the button more for it to completely open. Confirm the safety latch works. (The latch has 2 cut outs, safety and closed).

Let us know your findings.
Good luck.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I made a few minor adjustments and the door opens and closes good especially from inside the car where the problem was.

I had all the pieces CAD plated and that added additional thickness to the pieces and just enough to be a problem in addition to the door jamb striker. I removed the striker and tweaked the offending part of it and I also bent the top of the door mounted piece as well. The door mounted piece I did in carefully in place with a prybar and vice grips.

A few thousands here and there is all it needed.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions!

 

[chicken]

Quick question, do the windows have 2 or 3 nylon guides in them for each door ?
I'm sure the book mentions 6 in total but i only have 2 on each window, at the top in the window guide and at the bottom on the rear door guide.
I wondered if there should be one one on the front at the bottom ?
Rob

 

[bob hughes]

Rob, from memory there should be three, also there are cutouts for the nylon guides in that L shaped frame, as you surmise, 2 in the front and one together rear.

Bob

 

[chicken]

Rob, from memory there should be three, also there are cutouts for the nylon guides in that L shaped frame, as you surmise, 2 in the front and one together rear.

Bob

Hi Bob, though i cant see how i would fit a guide in the front bottom corner, it has the cutouts on either side but where the frame is riveted to the upright on the bend there is no hole through the back for the nylon guide, any ideas ?