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Tips
Tips

better brakes?

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Go out on a clear straight road at 35 mph and stomp the pedal. They should lock and stay locked. If they don't, then you have a problem. I'd test them before you need them.
 
You probably just need to seat the brake pads by driving it and making some slow stops where you keep your foot on the brake pedal, some peoaple referred to as brak glazing gree brrake pad fade, common with new brake bads they just have to be seasoned. Thi si always somethign you play close attention in a race car, with new pads, like before a race on the pace lap you drag the brake a bit more to get rid of the intial new glaze, some folks even use some sandpaper to scuff them in before installing, it's called bedding the brakes in.
 
Hap, I think he has been driving on these for awhile.
 
Look to those flex-lines. It has three. One each corner up front, one at th' diff in rear. They can swell internally and thus "valve".

You should be able to stand th' thing on its nose.
 
Does your brake light work? (Mine doesn't) If your brake light isn't working and you have a dual master cylinder, it is possible your Pressure Differential Warning Actuator is activated to one side and you are not getting full braking on both ends of the car. I think this is my current problem. Here is an article on the evil device:

https://www.vtr.org/maintain/pdwa.shtml
 
I keep throwing this out as something to look at when someone has problems with brakes.

check the rear brake adjustment, mine was way out of adjustment when I bought the car, causing the same symptoms you are describing.

checking the adjustment takes all of 10 minutes, and it completely fixed my problem.

hope that helps

joe
 
highhilleer said:
Does your brake light work? (Mine doesn't) If your brake light isn't working and you have a dual master cylinder, it is possible your Pressure Differential Warning Actuator is activated to one side and you are not getting full braking on both ends of the car. I think this is my current problem. Here is an article on the evil device:

https://www.vtr.org/maintain/pdwa.shtml
Click to expand...
I went through all that and tested it before. The brake light and warning actuator if one system fails works good. Come to think of it maybe I do need to adjust the rear. When my wife was driving and I didn't think she was going to get stopped I pulled up the E-brake and it worked well and slid the tires. You would think that it would work the same with the pedal. I got bad knees to so I must think on this one a while.
 
So Kim,

where are you at with your brakes? Did you ever replace the rear hose? If hose was swelled and could not flow fluid, well e-brake would work just fine but internally could not pass fluid. Think about that one. I thought my rear hose was fine until I could not get any fluid out of rear when I tried to bleed brakes.

90% on Braking in a Spridget is done with the front brakes not the rears. Gotta keep you safe out there. Let us know.
 
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