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Best way to set the timing on a Midget

nathandarby67

Senior Member
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I could use a little help on this one from someone whose done the job before!)I want to give the 73 Midget I just bought a thorough tune up, so first thing on my list is setting the timing. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that you can't see the timing marks from the top becasue they are on the bottom side of the crankshaft pully. So I looked from underneath, and I can barely get a glimpse of the marks. (by the way, my car, with an 12V engine, has five "points" on its timing marker instead of the three my shop manual shows....which one is TDC, and where exactly would 9 degrees BTDC be?) The problem now is that when looking from underneath, I can't see the notch in the pulley becasue the thick front part of the pulley blocks the rear lip from view.

So, I guess my question is, are there any "tricks" to setting the timing on a 73 Midget I should know? Or is the best way simply to lie on my back with the timing light while someone else handles the distributor? Thanks for the help!

[ 06-02-2003: Message edited by: nathandarby67 ]</p>
 
You may already know this trick but I found it's easier to see the timing mark if you highlight it with white paint. As far as needing to be on the floor and at the distributor at the same time, is there any way you could set a small mirror on the floor under the pulley? If you can rig up a mirror that allows you to see the timing marks from topside without having to set up a "funhouse mirror" type arrangement, that would be cool. Good luck!
thirsty.gif
 
I can't really offer any great ideas.....this is a pain in the neck on these cars, unless you modify the front pully with a "degree wheel" (not worth the trouble on a street car).

The longest "point" should be 0 degrees.....the points to the right of 0 (as you look at the front of the car) are BTDC. 9 degrees should be two or three "points" to the right of 0 (as long as it's close, the car should run decent).

I always move the distributor a little bit and check....move the distributor a little bit and check....move the distributor a little bit and check....you get the idea!

Be sure the car is idling slow (about 750 RPM) and vacuum advance hose is removed from the distributor (and plugged). As suggested, clean things up and use bright color paint/chaulk to make the marks stand out.
 
These are a pain for dynamic timing! I just resorted to static timing. with the valve cover off, you can determine actual top dead center and then swing it back to the correct pointer. Finally set the dizzy with a diagnostic light and it's dead on.
Good luck and have fun with this. Most people don't know the joys of getting into an engine bay like these!
lol.gif
 
Thanks for the suggestion!! Sounds like a good idea. I was actually thinking of just setting it by static timing, but I was worried it wouldn't be correct, as my manual only lists settings for dynamic timing for cars with emissions control (although the air pump has been removed from my car....does this change anything?). So how many degrees should I advance the timing? Should I just use the 9 degrees BTDC that the manual lists as the correct figure for dynamic timing? If not what is the correct number of degrees BTDC static timing to use in a 73 Midget? Thanks again!
 
Timing is still the same with the air pump removed.

I relocate the pointers on my engines. Just turn the damper pully till you are set at TDC and use a piece of coat hanger(temporary use only)and use a bolt on the timing cover to attach and set the point of the coathanger close to the balancer and scribe a mark on the balancer. From here you can either use a degree advance timing light(prefered) or scribe you another mark at 9 degrees.
 
A coat hanger style pointer is very easy to hit and knock out of adjstment. You could leave the pointer and make sure it is still callibrated at the next timing adjustment. Or spend a little extra time to make a more secure pointer to begin with.
 
Racecar,

That is a great idea but why temporary only?
D
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by racecar12:
use a piece of coat hanger(temporary use only)and use a bolt on the timing cover to attach and set the point of the coathanger <hr></blockquote>
 
Old school way was to set it somewhere near so it starts,
drive it up the road, get it to temp, advance the timing, drive it under load,
advance the timing again and drive it under load,
repeat this process until it pinks under load, then back it off just a smidge until it stops pinking.
Managed to grab a better performance this way, not all things are equal on the older engines,
some run well at factory marks, some need a tweek.
 
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