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TR4/4A Best Source for 4/4A Pump to Carbs Fuel Line?

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CinneaghTR

CinneaghTR

Jedi Warrior
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Have you guys had good/bad experience with the various vendors for the fuel pump to carbs fuel line on the TRactor motor, specifically 4/4A? I am thinking about Classic Tube, TRF, Moss, but I am open to other suggestions.

I prefer pre-bent because I do not have an original to serve as a pattern.

(I know questions like this can be tedious, but lately I have ordered one part from one vendor only to learn that another vendor had the better part. Example, TRF has the correct felt grease seal for the TR2-6 front wheel hub you do not have to cut, swear at, make a sacrifice to, etc, while INSERT VENDOR NAME HERE does not.)

Thanks!
 
This was more than 6 or 7 years ago, but the one I purchased from Moss was not pre-bent - just a coil of tube with the threaded male fitting for the pump. It took a lot of time, but after looking at other 4/4A's and different photos in owners manuals, shop manuals, etc. I was able to get it nicely shaped. If I had known, I would have just ordered from Classic Tube.
TR4AEngineBag003.jpg
 
Classic Tube lists this as the part for TR4/4A fuel pump to carburetor:

Product ID: TRC1002-SS
Year: 1957-61
Make: Triumph
Model: TR3 TR3A TR3B
Price: $80.00 Stainless (-$20 for mild steel)

It is basically the same line after 1957 up until the end of the 4A run, isn't it?
 
CinneaghTR said:
It is basically the same line after 1957 up until the end of the 4A run, isn't it?
Click to expand...
Because the same holding clip and bushing are listed for both 3 and 4/4A (where it anchors the tube as it runs below the thermostat housing), I can't believe the line bends any differently between a 3 and a 4/4A.
 
3798j said:
Because the same holding clip and bushing are listed for both 3 and 4/4A (where it anchors the tube as it runs below the thermostat housing), I can't believe the line bends any differently between a 3 and a 4/4A.
Click to expand...
Perhaps not, but I found two different part numbers just for TR4A, and both of them are different than TR3. Possibly the only difference is at the carb end?
 
Randall,

That's what I was thinking that perhaps the carb end might be bent slightly different or end at a different spot due to the different carbs between the TR3 and the TR4A (and perhaps different between the Stromberg and SU's as you found 2 part numbers for the TR4A).

I can check my TR3 and TR4A to see if they have the original lines (unmodified).

Scott
 
Don't know why, but I didn't think to consider the different carburetors in use (sorry), and agree that it likely points to the reason there are two different part numbers for the 4A.
 
I only found one number (305995) too. But this has jogged my memory with the order that I placed with Classic Tube for the hard brake line (13) on plate AD (page 52). I placed the order over the telephone (this is before I used the internet). The gentleman said that they had the pipe, but only for the independent suspension - not the rigid axle. If you look at plate AD, no number appears on the tube pictured in "rigid suspension". It is only shown in the drawing for "independent suspension". Although there is no difference between the IRS and solid front brake lines, he was looking at that illustration and telling me they could only duplicate pipes they had numbers for. My point is: I think it would help if you would call Classic Tube and ask them to look at plate AE (28)and ask if they can duplicate it.
 
I called Mike at Classic Tube yesterday and he confirmed I would be getting the correct fuel line for the 4/4A. If I need to tweak one of the ends I can do that. He did not mention that he had the parts manual. That is impressive.

I came across the brake line kit for the rigid axle 4A on the CT website, too, which was new from the last time I looked. One of these days...
 
Jeremy,

Here's a picture of the carb end on my 1967 TR4A which I believe is original but I can't be totally sure.

dcp_1773.jpg


Please ignore the original "patina". :smile:

I vaguely seem to remember this is how my 1966 is routed as well but I can't get to it right at the moment. I recall making a new one out of copper and working to get the bends correct including the last one so it lined up with the input to the float bowl.

Let us know how that line from CT looks when you get it!

Scott
 
CinneaghTR said:
What numbers do you have, Randall?
Click to expand...
Oops! My apologies, opened the wrong file and didn't notice. I grabbed the TR4 SPC, which shows 303059 and 305995. My 4A SPC only shows 305995.
 
Thanks, Jay, Scott, and Randall.

I'll let you guys know how the line works out. I have about two weeks (at least) to wait for it, but I've got the passenger side front suspension to do and have to figure out why the new water pump pulley is crooked and how I can fix it so I am in no hurry. Oh yeah, there is that thing called work, too.
 
Some, including yours truly, have had issues with the compression fittings as supplied on the aftermarket lines. The original fitting used the proverbial "long olive". This had been discussed several times in the past, and I don;t believe any of the suppliers had addressed the issue at that time. Suggest you check to see if the folks at classic tube have addressed this known issue...if not you may be disappointed when it leaks. There is a fix by Scott Suhring that involves using two modern day fittings to make one original style, I can email to you if interested


Per Scott Suhring:
"A common problem when replacing fuel lines on TR3s and 4s is that you cannot get a good seal since the original compression fittings are no longer available. The original brass gas line compression fitting was longer than today’s replacements. Look closely at your original brass ferrule and compare the extra wide flat area in the center and the total overall length against the replacement fitting. This is what is needed to keep the brass nut from hitting bottom before making a gasoline tight crimp on the fuel line.
 
Mike,
I bet there are a bunch of us who would really like to see Scott Suhring's fix as well. I'm replacing fuel lines and am running into this very problem.
John
 
Mike at CT and I talked about that. They don't sell any fittings, just the lines. He did say that stainless requires about 15 lbs/ft MORE of torque to seal the lines so they have to be seated and lined up correctly before tightening.

I have Scott Suhring's article and am prepared to go that route. I was pretty happy with the profile of the compression fittings for the heater return line provided by TRF and was hoping the fuel line fittings would be similar. If those don't pan out, I'll add it to the TR drama list (knock on wood...) and get to it.
 
JohnnyMead said:
I bet there are a bunch of us who would really like to see Scott Suhring's fix as well.
Click to expand...
For the moment, you can click on this thumbnail. Later maybe I'll try to post the PDF somewhere instead.
 
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