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Tips

TR2/3/3A Bench Bleeding

Crankshaft

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I'm installing a replacement or rebuilt clutch master cylinder.
I've read about bench bleeding but need advice on exactly how to do it.
 
I’m doing the same, but decided against bench bleeding basis other conversations on the forum. I’ve not yet done it, but understand it will simply take longer - and make less mess.

I’ve bought a Gunson Eezibleed kit off eBay from a shop on in the UK (but only because Amazon won’t ship international to a business account - argh). I hope this helps with both hydraulic systems.
 
I’m doing the same, but decided against bench bleeding basis other conversations on the forum. I’ve not yet done it, but understand it will simply take longer - and make less mess.

I’ve bought a Gunson Eezibleed kit off eBay from a shop on in the UK (but only because Amazon won’t ship international to a business account - argh). I hope this helps with both hydraulic systems.
Thanks for the info. I'm going to try it this way because the most plentiful resource I have is time.
Thanks again
 
I have never had to bench bleed a MC. Once in a very long while you will get a bubble that causes problems, but with patience you can work it out on the car.
 
I put the new cylinder in and then open the zerk and gravity bleed for a while with a clear hose into a pickle jar. They sell clear little hoses at hd lowes. When I get enough fluid into the jar so the end of the hose is under the fluid level then I give the pedal a few pumps close the zerk and see where I am at with the bleeding. It usually works the first time with no mess. Oh keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir
 
Gravity bleeding has always worked for me with the clutch, not so with the brakes (perhaps my impatience).
The bake master will sometimes require a slight "prime" if installed dry. If that happens, you can crack open the line on the master that goes to the brakes and give the brake pedal a tap or two. Messy though so better to do that on the bench. I don't really bleed it on the bench, just run a bit of fluid through, then drain most so it doesn't run all over things.
Tom
 
Kind of like Tom suggested, I will prebleed a master cylinder installed by opening the nut to the line into the MC enough for the fluid to seep out, wrap it with a rag, couple pumps until fluid comes out, then tighten it down and bleed the system regularly.
 
As John (CJD) suggested above, there is a very good chance that you won't need to open the line on the car. The pedal and cylinder box on the TR3 was not designed to be cleaned of spilled fluid.
Tom
 
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