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BE Sill/Rocker Replacement

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John Moore

John Moore

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Sometime in my future I'll need to replace my rockers on my bugeye. I'm not sure if I'll need to replace the inner sill yet, but I did buy both the outer and inner peices from a fellow forum member just in case.

I'm trying to get a handle on what's involved. I recently purchased the Lindsay Porter book, but was somewhat dissapointed with the washed out B/W photos. I also just looked at Ray's site (great photos!)

But it looks like I need to cut out the rear dogleg to get at the top of the rocker back there... is that correct? I'll also have to replace the lower 1/2 of the A piller as its rusted too, but looks like that will have to come out too anyway, correct? Do I have to remove the doors or can I leave them attached for alignment?

Any tips or suggestions appreciated. I'm still a ways off from doing this job, but trying to get a handle on it.

Thanks!
 
BTW - i'm sure some of you will croak, but I've found what color I'm going to paint my bugeye, while I sort it out mechanically..... It's Hot Rod Flatz Mint Green. I had orginally thought it would do it in either grey or black primer but this looks like more fun and will go great with with while walls and red wheels! lolol! Plus it's only $35/Quart! I'll shoot it in my garage.

here's a photo of a Karman Ghia in that color.
 

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For me, that colour doesn't look a whole lot different from the original leaf green.

It's a reasonably big job to replace both inner and outer panels. Especially if you want to remove the original inner panels completely before puting the new inner panels on. And remember, this is a structural part. Weld cross bracing in the door area before removing the panels.
 
Thanks Donn,

I've done a complete sill replacement before on an MGB, so I can appreciate the work involved. Right now I'm still trying to figure out how it all goes together.

I'm hoping I won't have to replace the inner sill. On my B that was a HUGE undertaking. Once bitten, twice shy.
 
Hi John,
Check online catalogues from some of the major british parts suppliers like
TRF - VICTORIA BRITISH - MOSS. they have exploded views that will certainly help you.
The Chicago MG owners club is also a good source.
Make a general search for British Car parts or British car spares.

Keep us posted on your results and we should all extend our admiration and congratulations to our webmaster Basil.
Chuck.
 
John Moore said:
I also just looked at Ray's site (great photos!)

...it looks like I need to cut out the rear dogleg to get at the top of the rocker back there... is that correct? I'll also have to replace the lower 1/2 of the A piller as its rusted too, but looks like that will have to come out too anyway, correct? Do I have to remove the doors or can I leave them attached for alignment?
Click to expand...

Hi, John...glad you like my site. For me, doing the work is 90%, documenting it is the other 10%.

You should not have to disturb the rear dogleg ("B" pillar) or the "A" pillars to install the outer sills. The same is true for the inner sills, but will require some notching and fitting of them around the existing components.

That said, you want to look very carefully at both "A" and "B" pillars once the outer sill is off. Evaluate the amount of rust there...there's always more than you can see from the outside with the outer sill still in place. If they are structurally sound, you're in luck...if not, replace now while you're already in there.

As far as the doors, a couple hours to make brace bars is a good investment. If you look at the ones I made, they use the lower hinge holes on the forward end and the striker holes on the rear end for attachment. It's good and sturdy and will result in doors that fit when you're done. If you're going to be cutting into the "A" and/or "B" pillars and doing repair, it's good insurance.

If you do have to fabricate the lower portion of the "B" pillars it's really not too bad of a job. Be sure you get the curvature on the outside correct...you don't plane down sheetmetal. There are photos of the ones I made on the site as well, down below the sill work. I suppose it can be done without, but the inexpensive bead roller I bought for this job was invaluable.

Ray

PS - for anyone else contemplating this that has not visited my site, go to: https://www.raysmg.com , then the "Spridget Project" link, then "Bodywork", then "Bodywork (Jun-Aug), then down the page.

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John,

I found it wasn't necessary to replace the entire inner sill on by car. I cut the replacement piece to the length I needed and patched it in. Even doing a little less than half of it required a tremendous amount of work removing the spot welds. As mentioned the inner sill is a very structural piece in these cars.

Mark
 
Well I hope my inner sill is in good shape, but I just won't know 'til I get there.

Thanks Ray. I know I have rust in the B piller, I just don't know how bad. I'm sure it's worse than I think! lolol Always is.

I just don't know if I want to start messin' with the body work 'til after I get it running. My original plan was to get it running first, but I would like to give it a quick squirt of paint, I just hate to paint over rust. But I know once I start cutting, it will be hard to stop.
 
I like the color idea too. I am putting a car on the road before doing the real body work. I patched any exterior holes with homemade patches from scraps (including old computer cases). I also shored up the rear bulkhead and installed new stiffners. I'd never worked on a 1/4 elliptical car before so doing the patch work has really helped me get a grasp on how I will tackle the actual body restoration. It will also allow me to make sure my custom modifications work as needed. I must admit that I lost a bunch of time by doing it this was (making patches that will just be ripped out later), but I think in the end I will be happier with the product. The real problem (as Ray mentioned) is deciding when to take it off the road to do the body restoration. However, if you have it all sorted out mechanically, you can strip a bugeye in a weekend, then spend 3-4 months doing the body work and sub assemblies, then reassemble in a week's time.
 
Trevor,

Glad you like the color! I know there are many ways to do a resto, but I think sorting it mechancially first is a good idea, in the long run it will give you a much better idea of what you want in the end... I hope!

Maybe that's what I'll do now... patch a few holes and see where my muse takes me.

right now I just need to get out in the garage and get going! (didn't help it was 7 degrees on Sunday! Uggg.)

Thanks everyone for the feeback.
 
More warm clothing and a few space heaters positioned 5-6 ' away from where I am working has helped me get throuigh the winter so far. Temps on Sat before the cold front rolled through were positively balmy in the garage with 40 degreee outside temps. Too cold to paint or do bondo work but nice for doing welding and other metal work. Post cold front temps last night dropped to Zero and 40-50 mph gusts.

Plan is to finish metal work and welding in Feb and March, April and MAy reserved for paining and back on the road early May. That is the plan and I'm sticking to it.
 
I'm doing some odd jobs in the warmth of the basement when it is too cold to get out in the garage. Today I made some temporary seat bottoms for it. Scrap plywood, some old foam from a hideaway matress, scraps of vinyl left from my MG interior, staple gun, "jigsaw", and a little spray adhesive.
It ain't pretty, it doesn't match, but it's gonna work... rat rod style.
 
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