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battery switch

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There are three leads to the batery switch. One from battery, one to the body(ground), and one that runs to the coil. When the switch is "on" I think there is no power to this coil lead using a meter. I have the switch out of the car because it was not functioning. Is that how it should be? that doesn't seem logical if the switch shuts off power.
Thanks for imput,
Rich
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That is correct. There should be no power to that lead. It merely grounds the coil lead when switched "off", thus preventing the car from starting. I have seen Healeys with that wire cutoff for some reason. It usually is a pretty hardy piece of hardware, why do you suspect it not working?
Johnny, 59bn7
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Well, the switch failed and I took it apart. (This is very easy by the way.) Inside I found the floating plate would not contact all three conections at one time. It had made sense to me that it would since it conected to the coil. Thank you, you have validated my thinking.
Rich
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I'm also wondering in what way the switch failed. A couple of years ago, mine got to the point that it would not make good enough electrical contact to allow the engine to start. I looked at the cost of a replacement switch, then took my switch apart, cleaned the contacts with a dremel tool and wire brush, reassembled the switch and it has worked fine ever since. It really is a pretty simple mechanism. You may find it can be rebuilt.
 
I found that the spring had flattened and wasn't putting enough pressure on the contacts points. I just streached it a little and its fine now. I love easy fixes!!!!
Rich
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by PalmettoBT7:
I'm also wondering in what way the switch failed. A couple of years ago, mine got to the point that it would not make good enough electrical contact to allow the engine to start. I looked at the cost of a replacement switch, then took my switch apart, cleaned the contacts with a dremel tool and wire brush, reassembled the switch and it has worked fine ever since. It really is a pretty simple mechanism. You may find it can be rebuilt.<hr></blockquote>

A VERY common problem. When I first got my BN4, I had that problem all the time. Even though the car is completely restored now, my wife still gives me grief over it 10 years later.
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John
 
Rich,

It is likely that the high resistance of the switch contacts created enough heat in the switch to anneal the spring. Don't be surprised if the spring flattens again.

D

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by tahoe healey:
I found that the spring had flattened and wasn't putting enough pressure on the contacts points. I just streached it a little and its fine now. I love easy fixes!!!!
Rich
<hr></blockquote>
 
Having never owned a Healey, (I'm really poor) I have a really dumb question, is that battery switch stock?? and if so what for?? and where is it located??
 
Gary,

Yeah. The battery switch is stock. Supposedly a theft deterrent I guess. From the number of people who have trouble with this switch I would call it a driver deterrent also. The switch is in the battery ground connection & is located in the boot. In addition to shutting off the battery there is another connection which grounds the points side of the coil.

D
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Gary Lloyd:
If it was me, I would wire around it and if I was worried, I would wire in a fuel pump switch!! Thanks for the reply!!<hr></blockquote>

Some people do both. The other reason for the battery switch is to keep the car from catching fire in the middle of the night. No - not Lucas!
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John, BN4
 
Gee!! And I used to like Healeys!!
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They sounds as bad as a TR3
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Just joking, as I am sure you were John!!
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[ 01-28-2003: Message edited by: Gary Lloyd ]</p>
 
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