• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Bad Oil Leak from Oil Filter Head

Share this page

H

hundredsixinsf

Senior Member
Offline
I've got the original cartidge style oil filter on my 100-6. I just changed the filter, cleaned out the inside of the canister carefully and reinstalled with new seal. Changed oil. Now there is a bad oil leak coming from the bracket/head of the filter. So the part that is bolted to the engine case. Not sure exactly where it's coming from, but definitely not leasking from the rim of the canister where the new seal is. I've heard this is a commoon spot for oil leaks, but what is the fix? Maybe a bad gasket between the case and the filter bracket/head?

Steve
 
When you changed the filter, did you remove just the oil filter canister or did you remove the whole thing from the block? In any event the two bolts that hold the entire filter assembly to the block might be loose. Try tightening them. If it still leaks there, replace the gasket.
Normally the leaks occur at the canister, either because the old rubber gasket wasn't removed entirely, the wrong size rubber gasket was replaced, or the canister itself was tightened but not properly fitted or seated.
 
Thanks Shorn. I only removed the canister, so I'll try tightening the assembly attached to the block and see if that at least reduces the leak rate.

Steve
 
Well, I tried tightening all the bolts on the head assembly. One of the two vertical bolts was just a tiny bit loose, so I tightened it. The other bolt and two bolts into the block were nice and tight. But still seeing a LOT of oil squirting out of the area where the two vertical bolts are. So I guess it's a bad gasket? No leaks are coming from the canister itself.

Steve
 
When you order a new gasket, just go ahead and order a spin on filter adapter. They are not expensive and you will eliminate the problem. Much easier to change the filter, cleaner too.
 
hundredsixinsf
I'm betting the problem is that the rubber seal between the canister and the block assembly is not seated properly. It's hard to tell by visual inspection, but you might try with a small mirror and flash light. You won't loose much oil removing the canister and reseating it...but look to see if the seal is damaged (crimped). If it is, it must be replaced with a new one. Also did you remember to remove the old rubber seal first? If not, that would cause a leak. Good luck.
 
Thanks. I'm pretty sure the seal at the lip of the canister is good. The leak is coming from below where the canister is.

I think I'll go for the spin on adaptor. Does it replace the entire current assembly? So do I remove the two bolts going into the block? Then bolt on the spin on? If it doesn't replace the entire assembly, I don't think it will resolve my leak issue.

Steve
 
Hi Steve,
Yes, the spin-on filter adapter replaces everything up to the block. Here is a photo of mine. The “not this” is the oil cooler sandwich plate that is additional. A good filter would be the K&N 2009.
5507-spinonfilter.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 5507-spinonfilter.jpg
    5507-spinonfilter.jpg
    83.3 KB · Views: 128
The oil can only come from the canister seal, or the gasket at the block. If the oil wasn't leaking before, it's coming from the canister seal, (the rim of the canister).

It's difficult, if not impossible, to remove the rubber seal ring between the canister and the bracket, it's best to remove the entire bracket when changing the filter. Then you can actually see the seal and use a dental pick, or something similar, to remove the old seal. (It's hard to believe that a new seal placed over the old one wouldn't work to seal the oil, but it doesn't.)

It's also fairly simple to replace the gasket between the assembly and the block. I use RTV on the gasket.

Greg: Why do you have to make things so simple? Using a spin-on filter takes all the fun and aggravation, not to mention the mess, out of changing the oil. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Thanks Dave. I'll go ahead and check the seal at the canister again. My new filter did come with two different rubber seals. A thin one and a thicker one. I used the thinner one, so not sure if I used the correct one. Pretty sure I removed the old seal or it just broke apart when I removed the canister. Maybe I'll try the thicker seal. If it doesn't work, then I'll go with the spin on.

As it is now, every time I turn the engine over a few times then release the starter button, oil squirts out of the filter area with a loud "spurrttt". Not good.

Steve
 
When I replaced my filter the first time, I found two rubber seals in it, the first came out easily as I removed the canister, the second, I had to convince myself was not part of the assembly, it was so tightly compressed inside the assembly grove, I finally got it to budge with an exacto knife blade.

The body of the assembly is aluminum, so if you look down into the groove you should be looking at aluminum, not something black.

The filters I've purchased have come with multiple rings as well, it's usually the thinnest one. The best fit coming from Crossland.
 
Steve

Check the canister seal. It's the only thing you messed with so it's the most likely cause of the leak.

I believe the skinny seal is correct. The fact that you are "pretty sure" you removed the old seal is cause for concern. Never had an old one break apart.
 
Back
Top