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Back Light Frame Question. AKA Surrey Top

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Got_All_4

Got_All_4

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I had to do some extensive repairs on my TR250's fiberglass back light frame. When I acquired it a few years ago the person who had it must of had problems with getting the rubber glazing to fit. So they ground down the lip to ease installation. Then there was not enough lip to grab the rubber. I did some repairs to the lip and did not get the angle of the out side corners right. Consequently the glass had a hard time staying in and I was constantly pushing it back into place.

Thanks to some here on the Forum I was able to figure out the angle and now I need help on the width of the lip. I also increased the lip width too about 5/8" all around figuring it would be better to grind off the excess now then to try to add some more latter. If someone has there rear glass out or happens to know the width of the lip, I would appreciate a reply. Thanks Larry
 
Larry-

If you get no responses, pm me. This is on my to-do list to refurbish my backlight frame, but I haven't removed the glass yet.

Randy
 
Randy

Thanks! I've been working on the 250 and comming back and checking my post. Trying to get it done so we can go to the TRF party.

Is your original or fiberglass?
 
Hi Larry,

I think it was me that took some measurements and pics of my backlight frame for you.

How did you add more lip? Insert alum or build up with glass cloth? Mine still needs more work to fit the rear glass to my satisfaction.
 
Larry-

Its original, can you use the dimensions? I'd think they'd be close to the same if you use the same seal and glass.

Randy

If you are in dire need, I can probably get it done this week or next, but I don't want to rush because if I break the glass it will ruin my day.
 
Yes I am using the original rubber seal. So I'm sure it's the same as the original aluminum frames. My glass is not OEM it's Plexiglass.
2 years ago when I did it the first time I used a very thin cut off wheel about a 1/32" and cut a channel on the edge of the lip all the way around the frame. Then I took a metal band 1/4" wide cut it to size inserted in the channel and fiber glassed around it. That band gave it a lot of strength.

What I did this time was add fiber glass mainly at the tip. A little matting on the top and bottom edges. Then forced resin between the layers. Time consuming. Then finished the low spots with Dura Glass. Seems very strong.

I don't know that you would need to add lip to an original frame. Unless some one did the same thing to it.

Thanks PeterK! I think it was you too. I must have missed placed the measurements. But it looks perfect now. Just got to get that width.
 
Larry-

Good timing, your request got me over my fear of breaking the backlight glass so I now have a frame to restore. It came off easier than I thought, but I bet putting that glass back on will be painful.

I measured the flange depth at eight points along the frame. The picture washes out the measurements, so here they are starting from the top and working around towards the gas cap:

(all in mm):
11 10 8.5 10 11.5 12 12 11

Probably looks more precise than it is, but I tried to measure to the nearest half mm. Let me know if you need any other measurements.

Randy

IMG_2123Small.jpg
 
Big Thanks for your time. I remember those days. Not as big of a project as mine. None the less great memories and hart ache. Getting that glass in is a struggle. It took 3 of us. If you have real glass be carful and have guys that know what they are doing. Not replaceable.

If you don't mind another favor to ask if I can get a photo of the inside where the frame mounts over top the B post. I believe there is a cover and a stud or a bolt that goes through the bottom of the frame and attaches to the deck panel above the B post. I have never seen an original mount up and the fiberglass ones don't have a way to mount the frame there. It just kinda floats there. I'm going to try to fabricate some thing. Thanks again.
Larry
 
This top is pretty nasty right now but the parts are still there. The attachment looks pretty simple. Normally a thin metal plate hides the access, the plate is covered in vinyl trim. Here's a pic on the passenger side. Without the plate you can see the hole for the attachment stud, shown here on the drivers side.

There was vinyl covering the mount on my project car as it was not a hard top car as shown here. Removing the vinyl trim reveals a welded nut to accept the mounting stud.

Randy
 
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