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axle leak at right rear..again

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tahoe healey

tahoe healey

Yoda
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About 4 years ago I repaired a leak the paper seals on the rear axle and all the stuff that went with it except not pulling the bearings. I am getting a leak again. Just a couple of drops on the outside of the break plate. Breaks are fine. I know it will get worse with time. I just don't have time for this.(still putting her back together after painting--I'm at 157 hours putting things back together.) Other than the breaks getting wet, what else should I be worried about. Can I get away with tightening things? I need to have things going in two weeks and again end of June for the Oregon. What is the best sealant on those paper gaskets?
TH
 
What is the best sealant on those paper gaskets: TH, Slather the "O"ring and the gasket surfaces with a good RTV Halomar ETC.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
If you're getting oil on the backside of the brake plate the leak is probably through the seal in the hub. A leak through the O-ring and paper gasket would sling oil around the inside of the brake assembly (these don't usually leak unless they're installed improperly). You need to replace the seal and, of course, the O-ring and paper gasket while you're at it. Check the bearing too--any roughness, grinding sounds or severe discoloration and it's time for a new one. This isn't a terrible job; the worst part is getting the hub off the axle housing (really helps to have a proper hub nut socket). Remember, one of the sides--I think the left--is a left-handed thread. The axles, fortunately, slide right out. You'll need a hydraulic press to get the bearing out (and back in). And, realistically, you should do both sides. If the bearings are OK and you're otherwise occupied you can still drive the car for awhile (until things get too messy).

I like Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on paper gaskets, though Hylomar works good, too. I think silicone RTV 'gasket makers' end up a little too thick for this type of application.
 
Hey TH ( Rich ?)
Got the exact same problem on my BN6. Noticed rather thick oil spots right
below the right rear wheel, looked at the back side, and residue on the
inside of the wire wheel. Pulled the axle and now waiting for a new seal
and O ring to come in from Moss - love that new Virgina warehouse as get stuff
in 2 days. Like Bob said above, know I have to pull the hub and deal with the
bearing. Not saying it was done right, but when the rear axle was rebuilt,
the large nut had a slight notch in it to be able to tap it off with a large
screw driver. No that's not correct, but seen it done on other cars so
guess I'll put it back on the same way. Going to borrow a hub puller
and right now not sure how to deal with the bearing. Bob's correct on the
way to remove and install, but think the service manual suggests an easier
way as I sure don't have a hydraulic press available. I'll let you know
how it goes or PM me if you want. BTW, you helped me out years ago with
borrowing your seat,carpet, etc installation tape from Moss - that still
was a huge help.
Regards,
Mike Lewis
 
Thanks, all. I still have the socket for the big nut so that will save time but I don't have anything to remove the bearings. I have gear pullers that can be reversed to go inside to pull. Will it work? What have you all used? Do auto supply stores loan/rent them? Can the bearings be tapped back in properly?
Mike, it is a very useful tape even though it is not always correct. I just looked at it the other day and found that the weather strip over the windshield to top was improperly installed.(bad job, PO)
 
A large gear puller works; you'll need something to cover the hole in the axle housing so you can tighten the 'screw' against it. Harbor Freight has cheap gear pullers--they're good for one or two jobs--if you have one in your area (or order online or by phone). Also, you can get the hub most of the way off by reversing the axle, placing the axle disk against the hub and using some bolts on the hub and the disk for a platform while tightening the bolts.

You might be able to get the bearings out and in the hub with a vise and some suitable drifts, but a press is best. I was going to say you shouldn't 'tap' the bearings back in, but without an axle press you have to 'tap' the hub onto the axle housing anyway, so maybe it'll be OK. Be sure to find a suitable drift--I wouldn't pound on any one part of the bearing race. I use a suitably sized piece of thick steel tubing pressed against the inner bearing race as a drift to knock the hub back on the axle (it helps to heat the hub a little, too).

Be sure to check the surface of the axle where the seal rides--if it's rough you'll just chew up the new seal. Also, smear a little grease on the lip of the seal where it rides on the axle before installing the hub.
 
Hey Rich,
If you have Advance Auto Parts out there you can "borrow" tools for a project.
I just picked up a complete axle/gear puller set up, you pay for it but then have
30 days to return for full credit. I'll be doing mine this weekend, will post
the results !
Regards,
Mike
 
Bob, it sounds like you are indicating that the axle must be removed from the car? Do you know what a "suitable size" is? Will a round wooden block work? Some very good advice. Where in CA are you? (PM okay)
Thanks
Mike, they are not out here. We have NAPA, Kregan, and Auto Zone with a pepboys 60 miles away. I'll make some calls.
Thanks.
 
I'm in the SF Bay Area. In order to get the hub off to get to the bearing and seal you have to pull the axle out--it's just held with a couple screws on the axle disk (not with circlips in the diff like in some cars). The axle housing--the big part--stays in place.

The tangs of the puller will go behind the hub, but to use the puller you need something to brace the center screw against (once the axle is out it's just a hole in the housing). The 'reverse the axle' trick might work, but it won't get the last half-inch or so.
 
Th
Off the top of my head:
remove hub extension nuts (not handed) that hold hub extension and drum on
remove hub extension
remove 2 screws that hold drum on and remove drum
remove brake shoes if needed
bend eared washer from top of large nut (handed)
remove both nut and washer
splined axle shaft should just pull out from centre of hub, note gasket and o ring and packing washer
reverse axle shaft so domed end is against axle threaded cylinder, and place washers and nuts on studs
tighten nuts and hub will be drawn off, may need to put packer between shaft dome and cylinder to get last bit off
remove hub complete
use bearing puller getting between oil seal and bearing or use drift from inside opening
check stud conditions and replace using socket and vice to compress in / out
note oil orentation and remove

replace oil seal, using seal installer or plastic pipe / nylon turned to correct diameter
use press or large socket / drift on bearing outer diameter to drive into recess
from manual note clearance required on hub face after gasket and spacer is fitted
cut shim steel washer if required to get correct clearance (see photo of bits)
build up using gasket sealer and with o ring on shoulder replace axle shaft.

I think thats about right, i'm sure someone will put me right otherwise.

Everything is doable without expensive tools except for the large socket, I made one in the end. There has been some discussion about the torque of the hub nut and anything over 80lb/in is good?

cheers Andy
 

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Yep Andy, that is zactly how you do it.-Keoke- :thumbsup:
 
What size drift are you using, metal or pvc? On outer races so it would be the diameter of the bearing? Where did you find that white "thing" which I assume is the drift?
 
Rich

I use a peice of brass bar as a drift as its softish for most work, use the outer race for knocking the bearing into the hub (I used a large socket so you can tap it in square) when you place the hub onto the axle use the inner race.

The white thing is a piece of solid nylon we have at work, I turned the top down to the correct diameter for the oil seal, again so you can tap it in on all sides without damaging it, I believe someone once said a piece of drainage tube is about the correct diameter?

Make sure the studs are all ok as you more have to press them in with the hub off, due to little room behind when the hub is back on the axle.

cheers Andy
 
Hey Andy,
Photos are great as I am in the process of doing the same thing. The large
rubber O ring that I purchased from Moss is not even mentioned in the shop
manual I have. Based on the parts diagram in their catalog it installs
against the hub but because of its size, cannot fit in the inner diameter of
the hub. Does that sound correct to you ? I didn't even have one installed
when I took the hub off this afternoon. Got the oil seal and bearing out
okay and can put back in correctly - I hope - but not quite sure about this
O ring. Any help you or anyone else can offer will be much appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
 
Oops - one more question, does the oil seal have to "seat" against the bottom
of the hub ? I have driven it in very carefully with a plastic drift made
from PVC pipe, but as of now cannot get it to go further.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Mike
memory is failing me on this one, but i seem to remember that there is a lip in the inside of the shaft plate (ie inside / flat side of domed head) that you just place it over or put it inside,
hopefully someone else will remember.

The only real problem i had thru the whole ordeal was not being able to remove the small hub nuts (phileas nuts?) due to that stupid shoulder and being rounded by previous owner. I had to drill them out in the end, hence replacing studs.

Second thoughts!!!! I seem to remember that you just place the o ring around the outside or inside of the spacing ring / washer. Place the spacer in the recess, look at the space left and you should have your answer if that makes sense?

cheers Andy
 
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