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Assembly order
- Thread starter Griz
- Start date
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healeyblue
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I did the rear body panels first otherwise you may be covering bolt holes up with vinyl or carpet.
Rob Glasgow
Jedi Knight
Offline
I did the body panels first and then the carpets and interior. Also, make sure you finish installing the rear fenders before you glue the trunk liner to the sides. Otherwise you'll have a bear of a time getting the fenders attached. And remember you'll probably need to remove and reinstall the body panels and doors several times before you're really done. That was a surprise to me.
DerekJ
Luke Skywalker
Offline
…because it is very difficult to get all of the panels correctly lined up and the doors hung correctly. Most people assemble all the panels on the car, get them all lined up (after much effort) then remove them for painting. Of course it depends on the level of restoration you are carrying out. Others just paint them on the car.
Rob Glasgow
Jedi Knight
Offline
Griz, its like DerekJ said, mostly to get the panel gaps and alignment correct. But also to redo some things in the engine compartment, remove the fender beads, etc. I had spent hours fitting the panels and doors to the car before I sent it in for body work, then removed everything again to take just the panels and doors back for paint, then reassemble every thing again, then remove them to do something I should have done before.....you get the picture. I know every screw and bolt on those panels very well.....
As far as the air tubing for the hearer and fresh air duct, I found it better to leave them off until I installed the front fenders. It's certainly easier to put them on before the fenders, but them you have an almost impossible job in getting the fender bolts on with them in place.
Oh by the way, you get to remove the doors every time you want the take the front fenders off. I finally cut the heads off 4 bolts that I would screw into the hinge mounting holes (two on the upper and two on the lower hinge) to use as guide pins when rehanging the doors. That way I didn't have to try to hold the door in position while I started the door hinge screws. Once I had two Phillip headed screws installed in each hinge, I pulled the "headless screws" and installed the Remaining PH screws. Saved a lot of frustration or asking my wife to help.
As far as the air tubing for the hearer and fresh air duct, I found it better to leave them off until I installed the front fenders. It's certainly easier to put them on before the fenders, but them you have an almost impossible job in getting the fender bolts on with them in place.
Oh by the way, you get to remove the doors every time you want the take the front fenders off. I finally cut the heads off 4 bolts that I would screw into the hinge mounting holes (two on the upper and two on the lower hinge) to use as guide pins when rehanging the doors. That way I didn't have to try to hold the door in position while I started the door hinge screws. Once I had two Phillip headed screws installed in each hinge, I pulled the "headless screws" and installed the Remaining PH screws. Saved a lot of frustration or asking my wife to help.
OP
Griz
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Good info about the air ducting and cut-off bolts, I'll certainly keep those in mind. However, my body panels are already painted and have been "fit checked" to the car, all by a well respected British car professional to ensure that proper gaps have been achieved. I'm hoping (maybe against hope?) that that translates into hanging the sheet-metal once and then making only minor tweaks to get everything aligned properly.
Griz
Griz
Rob Glasgow
Jedi Knight
Offline
Just to further clarify. Test fit, cut ,bend and install the clamps and hoses for the air ducting before installing any of the panels including the front shroud if possible. Install and remove several times so you know the hose ends will slip on the flanges easily. Once you've "trained" them, the hoses will fit back in place easier when the fenders are installed. They can be a pain.
