As my overdrive woes continue.

[Guest]

In past posts, I cried about my brand new rebuilt J-type overdrive not working properly. It goes in, but won't come out. I pulled the Dash Pot/Pressure Valve assembly, cleaned and blew out the orafice to the NEW solenoid, reassembled and it worked great, once. Soooo, I have it at a tranny shop, guys says he will look at it without pulling it out. It's been a week and he still has my baby stacked in the yard. Anyway, unless some of you gearheads out there come up with a magic fix in the valve area, I'll take her home and pull the tranny and send it back to Conn. Pain in the butt!! It's got to be something really simple, but the vendor only says "send it back, it's guaranteed."

Any miracle cures out there? I really don't look forward to going through this again.

I am using 30wt ND oil as the rebuilder insisted.

Bill

 

[vagt6]

Mine new Jtype still doesn't work properly, either.

The OD it is slow to disengage after the box reaches operating temperatures. It's fine until the temperatures get to normal. John Kippling indicates that some Jtype solenoids simply won't work properly because of the heat. On a GT6 this area has very poor air circulation and is prone to high temperatures. He tested a large number of new ones and found a few in every batch that simply refused to work. Maybe mine is one of those?

We've cleaned the filters and checked the pressure, it's OK. I'm having the solenoid removed and we'll hone out the area where the piston travels to smooth the bore. Sometimes this area gets pitted and the piston sticks, I'm told.

I'm not fluent with this procedure, but my repair guru (Joe Hash Triumph, Ltd.) said it might work. If this fails, I'll try another solenoid.

God, I hope I don't have to send the gearbox back to Quantummechanics. My fingers are crossed, I'll let you know how this goes.

At least I can drive the car!

 

[Rick O.]

Sorry to hear of your problems, especially with a newly rebuilt O/D. But be assured that Esposito will take care of you, even though he doesn't have to do the gearbox R&R! You sound like you have a good familiarity with the J type, so what I'm suggesting may be redundant:

1. Does this disengagement problem occur only when hot? (sliding clutch stuck in the brake ring when hot, retracts when cool)

2. Possibly a stuck relief valve keeping the dash pot from depressurizing?

2. Is power disconnected from the solenoid when the switch is in the OFF position?

As you know, be very careful where you park until this condition is fixed. You don't want to reverse out of a parking spot with the O/D inadvertently engaged!!

Rick O.
72 TR6 ('A' O/D)

 

[Carmine]

Bill,

I agree with Rick's assessment. I had a problem with my J type OD (74) sticking in the on position. Took solenoid off, honed it out, and it has been operating silkly smooth since then.

Another good resourse is the Buckeye Triumphs web site and Nelson's report. Try buckeyetriumphs.org

Carmine

 

[Guest]

Hey guys,
The last three posts on this question talk about "honing out" the bore where the solenoid plunger works. What exactly does this entail?
Can it be done with the tranny installed? I can get to the cavity (comes with the trade) where the solenoid operates and could probably insert some kind of powered hone into this area. I realize this is all soft Aluminum and screwupable. I am desparate at this point and want to do anything to avoid pulling the tranny again (and the interior). Please, details from those of you that have done this: what kind of hone, what drives it, how much to hone, etc.....

Much abliged.

Bill

 

[vagt6]

Dr. Bill, I'm letting my technician do this honing exercise with the solenoid and I don't know how it's done. However, I'll watch him do it this Saturday and report back to you ASAP on the procedure, especially if it works!

I have a 33 mile drive home on nice, country roads so it will get a thorough testing.

Good luck in the meantime.