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ARP flywheel bolts--install Latest [no Loctite]

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ALLAN

Jedi Warrior
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ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite]

I received my my ARP flywheel bolts and washers from APT and I just got off the phone with them. They say not to use Loctite, they sent out a small tube of ARP Moly lube with the ARP instructions. ARPs recomendation is to clean the bolts, apply the lube and torque and loosen the bolts three times. They say the problem with bolts loosening is that the bolts have not been stretched or seated good enough with a one time torque. Recomended torque with the moly lube applied is 65lb. ----------- With an aluminum flywheel you must use the hardened washers but one question they couldnt answer is, do you use them on a stock steel flywheel??--Any opposing opinions on ARP instructions??
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite]

I've spoken to a few builders that say the washers are a must. The surface area of the bolt heads isn't enough to keep you from compressing the aluminum when you torque them down. This compression is one of the causes of the bolts loosening over time.

By using the washers, you increase the size of the contact patch with the flywheel thus distributing the force when you tighten the bolt.

Hope this makes sense.
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite]

But can you use them or need them on a stock steel flywheel?
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite]

you can use anything you want, but the cars seemed to do just fine with the normal bolts. this would be something to do for racing, but normal use only requires normal parts, most of the time.

or are we talking abuot using the washers? i guess i'm kinda confused on why we are asking the question...
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite

We are talking about the proper installation of the APR bolts (that alot of people have or will upgrade to) and if the hardened washer should be used on a steel flywheel.
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite

Allan,

I misread your post. I was talking about an aluminum flywheel. You shouldn't need the the washers for the stock flywheel.

Sorry for the confusion.

-s
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite

Thanks, no sorrys needed, I think Im going to use the washers unless someone gives me a good reason not to.-----I was hoping to get some opinions on the use of APR-Molly lube vs. loctite and the APR recomendation of 65 lb torque.
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite

Allan:

The ARP bolts might be the smaller cap screw 12 point head, smaller than a 6 point screw. The contact area under the head will, though, be very close to a conventional 6 point screw.

The problem lies in the under-head radius of the bolt. Those ARP "specials" might (or might not) have a large u.h. radius. IF they do, you must use a hardened, double disc ground shim (washer) that has a RADIUS on one side of the washer inside diameter. The radius should take into account (and mate to) the bolt u.h. radius.

Always use the above shim style with an Al. flywheel. IF the steel fly that U R using has insuficient radius for the screw then you MUST use above washers. If the wheel does have a nice radii then the washers arent necessary.

IF this is a 3/8" bolt you are using (Spit) you shuld always use the ARP or high strength bolt...as they are only four of them and are marginal for "fast road work".

So.....what you do for installation is rinse the bolts and washers with MEK or Acetone. Remove all shipping grease/lubricants. Brake cleaner is a not close second. Clean the bolt holes in the crank thoroly with Acetone and a q-tip until the tip comes out white )or use Loctite kleen-n-prime if you have it. Apply two drops of blue Loctite on the bolt threads and torque and then relax the torque (undo) to the torque specified USING NO LUBRICANT and the third torquing is the final assembly (do this all within a few minutes B4 the Loctite sets up. You use Loctite and not a lubricant because and especially with small displacement /long stroke motors there is a series of harmonics and the rpm range is higher and constantly going thru these first and second orders . (Short answer..more vibration) and flywheel bolts tend to loosen). Some folks eavesdropping might say "it's never happened to me"...not a valid argument for not properly doing the job.

As an aside, make sure the grip length (non threaded portion) of the screw is correct as well as the total u.h. length of the bolt. the bolt holes in the flywheel should be close tolerance especially if no dowel pin is used.

Spending a few minutes more in doing a job might produce benefits.
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite]

Is it necessary to install new bolts whenever a flywheel is removed, or can you use the old ones with Loctite?

Please give me the right answer? (It's all back together)
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite

You are ok to reuse the same bolts. I have done it.
 
Re: ARP flywheel bolts--install up-date [no Loctite

Consider this. I have installed an aluminum flywheel using stock bolts that were holding the stock flywheel on. I used high-strength locktite (as per al. manufac. of flywheel recs.) and torqued to spec, not using washers. The bolt that go into the flywheel are relatively short, compared say to head bolts, and as such will have very little stretch. Adding washers will reduce that stretch an in turn reduce the hold. Looking at available washers (high strength) all I see is a very slightly increased footprint and some lose of thread grip. I vote for stock bolts and Locktite. And plan never to exceed or hardly even approach redline.
 
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