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MGA Anyone have an MGA VIN/title I can buy?

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Thanks for the info and ideas on the MGA coupe.

First thing to do is see if the front cross member has a clearly identifiable VIN. Otherwise I'm thinking actually wrapping up buying it might be a dead-end.

In case the VIN isn't evident there, would trying to find a car past saving to harvest the MGA VIN/title from be my only option?
 
Hi Jeff - I've dug into Texas DMV and they have indicted that they won't release the VIN/owner info based on the plate but that was a "standard" answer. I was hoping to find a somewhat more sympathetic answer.

CA will require a VIN to get a title.

So I'm thinking that I could be really stuck without a back up plan...
 
Now guys, where there is a will there is a way.

I would talk to Texas again for starters. heck the police and such get that info all the time. Tis not like you need the owner just the number.
 
I have 2 old MGA coupe parts cars - 1 has the VIN/paperwork I need to legally make 1 good coupe...gotta keep that for my future MGA coupe project in the event I run into the same thing you're involved with....
 
BIBBER..Thanks for that info!

.....the article states: "There is or originally was (usually) a chassis number stamped into the top of the lateral frame rail (under the carpet) near the tunnel on the right side (basically below the ignition switch). Supposedly the chassis number should be the same as the Car Number on the ID tag screwed to the heater shelf."

If that's the truth, there's part of the VIN - at least the part that's specific to a particular car...everything else is generic & can be added with a new VIN tag...& that chassis number should be enough to trace the title:

G - MGA 1600-1600MkII
H - 1400 to 1999cc
D - coupe
L - LHD
2 - 1600MkII (nothing for 1600)
numbers - chassis number
 
Some MGA's are 1600....I believe his is a 1600 after looking at his grille.

I looked in the Moss catalog for the VIN sequencing...that's where I got the 1600 example in my post.....

& Moss describes a 1500 MGA coupe this way:

H = MGA
M = Coupe
3rd letter = body color
4 = North America
2nd number = paint type
car number off chassis

I could be wrong though
 
as a matter of fact I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say,..(assuming the body panels are original)that its a 56 or 57 because it doesn't have the raised hood (bonnet).
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]its a 1500, the grille is incorrect.[/QUOTE]
That's the reason I figured 1600....well, when you find the number on the chassis, we can determine the complete VIN....this is working out!!

I think: HMR43------

H = MGA
M = Coupe
R = White
4 = North America
3 = cellulose paint
? = car number off chassis
 
So it is a little but before 6 AM here in California and I'm keeping myself busy pretending to work and clearing email... But what I am really doing is trying to make the time pass quickly so I can bug the dealer to open their shop so I can get over there first thing and check the darn chassis number.

Anyone taking odds of it being there vs. being rusted or worn away?

You have no idea how much I APPRECIATE the help guys.
 
being a coupe and mostly out of the weather, a fair chance.
Go over the area with a fine grade sandpaper and a hard pad,not your fingers.This way no chance of sanding away the faded numbers.A strong lite a strong glasses helps.
 
And take chalk and a big magnifying glass; I steal my kids "sidewalk chalk". Big hunks of glorious chalk. With any luck, it gets stuck in the indentations.
 
Tom-

If you really need the VIN, try dealing with the eBay title insurance company. They have relationships with every state's DMV (read: connections to get stuff done). They were invaluable in getting my Spitfire title sorted out .. you remember, the car that was sold by a guy that didn't actually own it?

It might cost you a nominal fee, but they were extremely helpful. I can PM you a direct number to the office so you do not need to go through the eBay claim process.
 
Thanks for the info and ideas guys.

So I did get the body number (49110) but the chassis number wasn't visible as is. The PO glued the carpet and pad down over the cross-member and there was some surface corrosion.

I am planning on going back later today and give the light sandpaper a go...
 
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