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Tips

anyone ever used one one these?

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They work well along an edge, but the problem is, not all spot welds are where this tool will reach them. I use a free hand step drill. Works well for me. PJ
 
I have the same one and have used it for some tests before I am ready to remove panels and it works great. It won't work for welds that are deeper than the jaws though unless you drill an access hole close by.
 
Good enough for me, then. I've got some rear wings to remove from a couple tubs and thought that, if it worked, this could save time and frustration.
 
equiprx said:
I have the same one and have used it for some tests before I am ready to remove panels and it works great. It won't work for welds that are deeper than the jaws though unless you drill an access hole close by.
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What makes it better than just center punching the spot weld and using a regular hand held drill? It strikes me as a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I'm curious if I'm really missing something here.
 
The most popular cutters I sell are the Blair line, replaceable cutter on an Arbor. The numbers are 13202 for the 5/16, and 13204 for the 3/8 cutters. the Arbor is a 13216. Both cutters are reversible... just like the jacket you had when you were a kid.
 
foxtrapper said:
equiprx said:
I have the same one and have used it for some tests before I am ready to remove panels and it works great. It won't work for welds that are deeper than the jaws though unless you drill an access hole close by.
Click to expand...

What makes it better than just center punching the spot weld and using a regular hand held drill? It strikes me as a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I'm curious if I'm really missing something here.
Click to expand...

Foxtrapper. I have tried the center punch and drill method after breaking the teeth off about 4 of the reversible cutting head type bit. (They seemed to like to skate alot.) I did finnish removing a wing with attached B post off a Spit tub with a drill bit sucessfully, however.

My next trick is to remove the top off the GT6 tub and graft it back onto my 77' tub. That's alot of drilling and the Harbor Freight tool appears to be the right tool for the standing seams on the Spit tub. Seems that it would operate like a hand held drill press. I'm going to try it, me thinks. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Why the HF cutter is better than using a punch and drill, is that it has a mostly flat bit like a mill bit, that will only drill through one side of the panel.
 
I found that most of the spot welds on my TR3 were not very large. I used 3/16" stubby cobalt (135 deg. split point) drills in a regular electric drill and was able to cut the welds without a problem. I found that the split point drills don't need to be center punched. Also, most air drills run too fast, and will burn up the bits. As stated earlier, a tool to solve a problem that doesn't exist.
 
Well Art, I found a three bit set of the stepped bits in the tool box on the bench as well as a new set of the other type bit with reverseable cutters. Before I spent any money, I'll try to use or use up what I have first.
 
This is what I use and not only do they work very well, they hold a razor sharp edge for a long time. Pretty tough drill.
You can get them at HF. On sale, their about 8 or 9 bucks for the set.

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Paul, that's the other set I picked up at H.F. the last time I went in. I just finished supper, going to head down to the barn and <span style="font-style: italic">check things out</span>... :thirsty:
 
martx-5 said:
...Also, most air drills run too fast, and will burn up the bits.
Click to expand...
I agree. When I used to do aircraft structural repairs we just used the mantra "low speed and plenty of feed". Only way to do it for Titanium and such. We just used to choke down the air hose by hand and adjust it on-the-fly as needed.
 
Yeah mark, got that. I'm using the step drill, working out real well.
 
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