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TR6 Any tips for replacing TR6 rear brake lines

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tdskip

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Hi guys - so replacing the front brake lines was easy. Access for the rears looks a bit tougher - any tips for me on the easy way to do it?

FYI - using putting in the new brake lines as my opportunity to switch over to synthetic brake fluid.
 
I am almost done replacing the line that goes from the left junction to the right rear wheel--long story but it all started when I got a Monza dual exhaust for Christmas and after rebuilding the rear diff--leaking, new poly mounts, 6 new u-joints, new boots, hubs rebuilt by Erik Nygaard at --Her Majesty's Service--the exhaust system is in and engine started since being quiet since the winter. I found that when I went to bleed the brakes--no fluid came out of the right rear wheel cylinder. The culprit was the rubber hose was plugged up--original 1970 Tr6 piece!!! I replaced all the hoses, waiting on the line from TRF due to odd fittings that no one local has--bubble flare on the end at the junction--almost impossible to remove while in the car--and the other end is regular double flare fitting. Unless you can reproduce a bubble flare on one end and have a female fitting for the other--you will have to order it. Mine was pretty rusty and may have been leaking also. I have had this car for over 1 year and never knew I was stopping on 3 wheels. All this work just to put a exhaust on her--oh, well--at least my brakes will be mint and the rear diff. leak free, new mounts, and u-joints and hubs new!!! Need more help--let me know. chargerdp
 
DMP,

Nice to see that you finally made it here.

And that your car is running. Welcome to the forum.

Let me know when we can get the cars together for a little fun run....
 
You could try removing the body tub from the frame. That's what I did.
 
tdskip said:
danstr6 said:
You could try removing the body tub from the frame. That's what I did.
Click to expand...

Oh man - I think I'll just try being a contortionist and pop some Aleve afterwards!
Click to expand...

At our Triumph tech meetings on Saturdays over at Tony's shop (Ratco), we regularly pull bodies off TRs in about an hour. :yesnod:
 
martx-5 said:
At our Triumph tech meetings on Saturdays over at Tony's shop (Ratco), we regularly pull bodies off TRs in about an hour. :yesnod:
Click to expand...

Really? I thought it was a bunch more involved than that. How many guys are working together to pull the body in an hour?
 
tdskip said:
martx-5 said:
At our Triumph tech meetings on Saturdays over at Tony's shop (Ratco), we regularly pull bodies off TRs in about an hour. :yesnod:
Click to expand...

Really? I thought it was a bunch more involved than that. How many guys are working together to pull the body in an hour?
Click to expand...

Four to six guys who have done it before with alot of coffee in them! :thumbsup:

Edit: Pulling the body is easy. It's putting it back on that's time consuming. :wall:
 
I don't know what the pipe runs are like on a 6, but I replaced all of my TR4 brake lines and hoses by getting the car high up on 4 jack stands.

Pulling a body seems like overkill to me and frequently leads to shipwrights disease; which is not good for a driver car.
 
Hi guys - making some progress this AM. (way over due, feels good to be pushing ahead).

So I got the passenger side rear replaced, was actually pretty easy. The Trick is to use a wrench that has a ratcheting socket built into it. You then use a 9/16 small wrench to turn the opposite way of the socket and off you go. Only took about 10 minutes - whoo hoo!

BUT, the drivers side as the three (two) way adaptor and the assembly is thus different than the passenger side.

I looks like the hose screws directly into that adaptor, but when trying to remove the existing like the whole adaptor and mounting are wanting to move as well. (worried it will snap).

Do I just need to hold the adaptor stationary with a grip while I try to loosen the old brake line?

Thanks guys!
 
tdskip---Leave the line connected to the junction and just unbolt the junction assembly from the frame with line still attached. You may find it easier to disconnect the main line coming from the master cylinder rather than disconnect the other two. I could not get my left hose off this junction either--until on the bench where I could get a better grip on it. I had to resort to my last wrench in my box--the gas wrench to remove the line going to the right rear wheel--it would not come off even soaking overnight with Rust Reaper penatrating oil. The nut and bolt that holds the combo junction onto the frame should be easy to remove since mine was well oiled by the leaking diff!!!! Hope that helps--let me know if you need other pearls of wisdom of just going thru this. dmp
 
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