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TR2/3/3A Any feedback on this? Rimmer Bros engine rebuild

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For rebuilds I prefer to buy things piecemeal rather than a complete kit, I'm not sure what the Rimmer kit will add up to with exchange rate and shipping but my guess is you can source slightly cheaper and get better control over each purchase by ordering from one or more US based vendors. Unless you are sure you won't clean up the crankshaft the Rimmer kit may not be the best as it has standard sized bearings. I'd also go with the upgraded oil seal that combines the old scroll seal with a viton seal.

Unfortunately you just missed a great sale at BP Northwest, but they've become my favorite shopping place for engine parts at the moment.
 
Chances are that your engine is NOT stock. It may well have been worked on before. This means that you need to determine the exact size of bearings that you need. In addition I have found that on one car the head had different sized valve guides from stock. So I had to order up a different set of guides to match the head. There are a number of things that need sizing before you buy the actual parts.
If you have watched ebay much you may have noticed a number of bearing sets at standard size. Undoubtedly from somebody that bought before they determined that their crankshaft needed some work.
Charley
 
I think the only thing you would need to send out is crank to be polished and have the head rebuilt because of the seat and guides. Plus I would agree about the rear main seal and all the guys on the forum would guide you through the process also.
 
I probably do not need the entire kit... I just want to get rid gonna that piston slap or whatever is knocking. I Chased that ghost all summer (although I’m fairly convinced it’s rings... but hen again I have good compression, ugh I dunno). I figured this would cover all of my basis. I’ve already replaced rod bearings (which are std). every time I’m elbow deep in my car; I always hear from someone - oh you should do this too...

maybe I try and drive the demons out. There’s got to be a thread on here about that - right?! :smile:
 
Once you are in there, you need to do every consumable part and the crank will almost certainly need to have the journals made round. As Charley said, size of various consumables may not be standard. Wait til you have it apart and see what you have.
Bob
 
I am a retired guy with limited funds, so that is a factor for me on a rebuild, but again these cars can be viewed as an investment in some ways, especially if your time health are available; it is not like you are throwing money into a Ford Pinto.


Anyways it is all connected at some point and if you have a knock well to be prudent you would need to do at least do the complete bottom end and while you are in there get a clutch and resurface the flywheel and if you do that, you would not want a bunch of unburned fuel dumping onto your new ring job, so rebuild the carbs-- oh you would not want oil running down the guides and plugging everything up also. ……


That said you can drop the pan and pull the head leave the crank in pull the pistons and the sleeves out put new ones in with news rings and go for less than 700.00 and that could last for who knows how long and the noise should be gone----Or just drive it and chase the demons out through the tail pipe until they stop with everything else; purity one less knocking smoking car on the road. But again it might last for a long time.
 
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