• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Anti-theft devices

DesertSprite

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Hello,

What do you guys think about putting a toggle switch of some sort to control power to the fuel pump? The previous owner told me that is what he did on his MGB. Whenever he parks it somewhere he doesn't feel is very safe, he just opens the trunk and flips the switch cutting power to the fuel pump. He says that if anyone took the car, it'd run out of gas less than a mile away.

I was thinking about doing this or perhaps an ignition "kill" switch. Let's just say that I live in a neighborhood that has its fair share of incidents...and I live in an apartment. The car is under a carport and covered with a car cover, but I'd still like to make sure it won't be making any trips while I'm not around.

Mahalos,
Joel

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Joel,Never park sumplace you don't feel is safe, or put the rotor in your pocket before you leave it there.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
You want something that will be easy to use and unobtrusive. While pocketing the rotor is effective, it is a hassle.

You might consider wiring in an old style starter button under the dash or in the glove box. A toggle switch that interupts the "on" circuit too may be effective.
 
I used to take the rotor off of my old VW sometimes, but it was a bit easier to get to than on the Sprite. I was thinking that since I seem to get into the trunk most times when I park (to lock up anything I don't want to carry with me or leave exposed in the car) I could just put a toggle switch back there to the fuel pump.

I'm not the best with wiring stuff, in fact it pretty much confuses the heck out of me. But, I guess I can give it a try.

Mahalos,
Joel
 
I'd suggest taking the ht lead from the coil to the distributor - at least while you are home. Easier to get to than the rotor, and zero chance it's getting driven away without it.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gifThe parts manager at the Jeep dealership I worked at back in the '80's would go under the dash of every car owned, and run the + lead to the ignition through a floor mounted dimmer switch. He'd put it up a bit high on the floor and under the carpet. When he didn't want his cae goin' anywhere, he'd hit the switch. Very low key, cheap, and effective. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
One of my Sprite doesn't even have an ignition key.
Just a series of dash toggles, every other one down to start it. 1 for ign, 1 for fuel pump, the others are lights, wipers, and heat.
My Bugeye has a key but also an ignition kill and fuel pump toggle.
But if someone really wanted any Spridget, all they would have to do is push it up the street and then tow it away.
Locks are for honest people.
 
Hmmm...lots of good ideas. For the time being, I'll probably pull the coil - distributor wire. That'll be easier once I get a chance to adjust the bonnet release cable as the thing is not releasing very well.

I like the idea of having several different switches to start the car. Hmmm.

Joel

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif
 
My favorite antitheft device is to run the battery pos. cable thru a heavy duty on/off switch that can be wired real easy I ran mine on the pass side it can be hidden in the glove box so its hidden from site. Mark
 
That removable key switch is pretty cool, but most places seem to sell it for close to $90 (Speedwell didn't list their price). A bit steep for a fancy switch, although it does look real nice and is definitely easier to operate than a switch in the trunk.

Joel
 
I believe the master key switch can be had for a lot less than the $90 above. On another board I frequent, a member found them with "Buy it Now" on eBay for a very low price.

I use an ignition kill switch. An acquaintance of mine installed an electrical fuel pump to an LBC that originally had a mechanical pump. Rather than run a new heavy gauge power wire for it, he tapped into the headlamp power to run the pump. If you didn't turn the headlights on, the car would stop after driving a very short distance.

You could put a kill switch in, a starter interrupt switch in, a main power switch in, or some combination of these. They all work. It's a question of how you hide them, what you'll remember to do, and what you're comfortable with.
 
Victoria British has one of the removeable key kill switches for $21. Part number 10-696. The last one of those I bought from them was a Hella.
There are a multitude of ways to wire in a kill switch, as Doug has mentioned. But, if they are very determined, the thieves are just going to pick it up and carry it off! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jeff
 
LoL, pick it up and carry it off. Yep, could happen.
 
Man that would suck.

I guess I'm just kind of stupid when it comes to wiring things in. Did I buy the switch that can handle x amount of amps? Is it going to melt down on me? Will the wire connectors hold?

By the way, where can you buy really good wiring connectors? Not those crappy ones that every auto store sells with the pretend wire stripper/crimper.

Joel
 
Electrical connectors = Electrical supply house
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif HF has them on sale for $3.00...
 
If you have put in a CD or Cassette unit you will lose all memory when you disconnect the battery. You can run a jump wire from one side of the switch to the other and splice in a low amperage fuse. When you disconnect the battery, you will save your memory. If someone tries to start the car the fuse will blow and the car will not start.
 
Back
Top